| More stupid hide glue tricks [message #38404] |
Mon, 23 September 2002 06:23  |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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I'm using 2 different veneers as much to experiment with different species as to conserve the fancy Makore. So the plain sliced maple is covering the back of each cabinet.
Even the plain maple is more difficult to work and I see now why I had so much trouble with the quilted. It ripples and cracks as it dries from the stress in the wood; I had to completely re-do one cabinet back. If you've ever ripped maple on a table saw you know what I mean about the stresses in the wood.
The Makore, as well as some Honduran Mahogany I played with is butter in comparison. Maybe tropicals are easier.
Anyway, don't spray the pieces to pre-wet them with cold water. Found out the hard way that it must be at least warm. But the pre-wetting is very important. One edge was curled up and took an act of congress to finally glue flat.
Where you have a bubble that won't go flat, lift the workpiece all the way back to the bubble, put more glue on the back of the piece and the front so it's thoroughly warm and slippery and then hammer it again toward the sides. Keep hammering as it cools and position the workpiece so you can exert great pressure on the hammer. It's amazing how much pressure it takes but the bubbles will go flat. Find them by tap-tapping on the piece with your fingertips.
Pre-cut the veneer so it overlays the workpiece by no more that 1/4". 1/8" is better. Some species may shrink a bit so don't cut too close. But more than 1/4" overlap makes it very hard to get the edges to lie flat.
Dry hide glue pops off adjacent workpiece sides quite easily with a sharp chisel. But only a scraper will do for the veneer itself
You won't sand the glue off and wiping it while wet will release the bond.
If you're not familiar with the scraper get yourself into a woodworking store, buy a Sandvik scraper and a burnisher and learn how to use it. Best tool for finishing anything, anyway. If you're rich, buy a "cabinet scraper" which looks like an old-fashioned plane but holds a scraper blade.
2 more sides and the baffles and I'll have 2Pi's!
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| Re: More stupid hide glue tricks [message #38432 is a reply to message #38404] |
Tue, 24 September 2002 15:23  |
crazychile
Messages: 46
Registered: May 2009
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Baron |
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Keep those woodworking tips coming!!!!! My 1 pi's are almost finished. This pair is being painted black (after bondo) to cover up my woodworking errors. Mebe someday I can put on somma dat purty vineeeer! I still havent bought that Freud router yet... Eat Mo' Hot Sauce,
crazychile
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| Re: More stupid hide glue tricks [message #38433 is a reply to message #38404] |
Tue, 24 September 2002 16:08 |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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I'm going to start keeping track of my errors and write a book called '10,000 ways to ruin beautiful wood'. And Bondo is a great way to fix mistakes, then cover them with peel-n-stick veneer and edge banding.
Wanted to add that I have tried flush trimming the veneer to the carcase sides both when it's wet and after thoroughly dry.
What I've found is that narrow edges that will sit really flat against the workbench trim up well with a warm, wet veneer saw before the glue is dry. And of course wet wood cuts like butter. However, larger carcases like the speaker cabs are difficult to get flat against the table (because of even minor out of square glue-up )and so waiting until after the glue is dry, 24 hours is better. Lessens the chance of ruining an edge. Again, warm and wet works best for the veneer saw.
You see references to using a razor knife or even a sharpened linoleum knife but nothing beats a veneer saw. I don't know how anyone uses a knife across the grain!
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