Bar none, it's the finest looking finish I've ever used. Feels silky, miles deep and the grain is more three dimensional than you could imagine. Classy low lustre. Antiquish.

Some caveats. Linseed oil is subject to spontaneous combustion and rags must be stored in water (baggies are good) before disposing. Also, Linseed tends to darken more than other oils so not a good choice possibly for cherry or mahogany which darken a good bit on their own.

OK to use on cherry that has been treated with a wash coat of tinted shellac which it should have anyhow to prevent blotching. But for lighter woods like maple, ash, sycamore , yew, etc, WOW! Several more coats to go, it's just beginning to 'build'. Pure linseed oil and beeswax, created by an enthusiast, fellow named Robson, available only at places like Woodcraft and Garrett Wade. Get some.

I've started buying old tube radios and restoring them, and the electronics are no problem for me but the woodworking leaves me "all thumbs." So I often take the advice of yours and other woodworkers on projects such as these. My last 1934 Montgomery Ward AM/shortwave "Airline" radio looks just great, thanks to advice from my woodworking buddies like you.

• http://www.akkuaria.com/musica/inglese/bond.htm

I have a few questions about the 'tried and true orginal wood finish'.
1. Should it be used on non treated wood like maple muliplex
2. If you use the varnish, are you able to make the multiplex absolutely smooth (no feeling of wood any more)
3. Can you use additional lacquer it after this treatment
4. Does it really get dark after a few treatments, i.e maple becomes medium oak, or does it only makes the tan of the original wood deeper.
5. how large an area can be done with one can of wood finish.

I hope you respond. Thanks.
Walter