| mdf cabinet assembly question [message #36440] |
Thu, 16 May 2002 06:09  |
ray99
Messages: 15
Registered: May 2009
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Chancellor |
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Hi. After all pieces are cut, can anyone write a couple of sentences about the technique of how to glue all pieces together. I think I have to use butt joints because rabbet etc is over my head. Are the front and rear pieces glued to the edges of the sides or do they fit inside of the side pieces ? Do you glue one joint at a time or all pieces at once? Thank so much for your help. Ray.
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| not sure about the other guys [message #36441 is a reply to message #36440] |
Thu, 16 May 2002 06:32  |
Sam P.
Messages: 307
Registered: May 2009
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Grand Master |
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but I usually glue the top/bottom/sides together first, forming a rectangular "skeleton". All cut outs and routing is done to the front baffle, which is attached next. Install your port tube(s). The rear wall is attached last, I used to make them removeable, but when you have a 14 inch "access hole" in front, nonremovable is easier to insure a gool seal. 1x2's are glued horizontally in several places to attach the fiberglass lining and space it away from the walls slightly. If you only have a jig saw, once the rectangular frame is made, lay it on the plywood and trace out the exact dimensions of your front/rear panels, then cut as close, but OUTSIDE, the lines as possible, to avoid excess sanding. The 4 Pi Pro's I built in this manner were all plain glued butt joints, done with care. I think leaving out the screws joining the panel edges MIGHT reduce the chance of splitting later, since stress at the screw holes is avoided. For sure you save the time otherwise spent drilling/screwing and applying filler over the heads. For a single project, the "drill/glue/screw method" will be cheaper than buying the 6 clamps or so I needed. Be sure to invest in the proper pilot hole drill for the screws you choose. Good Luck! Sam
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| cab assy [message #36456 is a reply to message #36441] |
Thu, 16 May 2002 14:05 |
Paul C.
Messages: 218
Registered: May 2009
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Master |
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For PA and MI spkrs, I make my cabinets so there is a 2" setback from the front edge to the baffle. This provides protection to the drivers. Of course, for a Pi style folded horn, this would not be necessary, nor with a spkr for home use. With ply cabinets, I use small finishing nails or brads to tack the spkr together until the glue dries. Screws are really unnecessary. The important thing is accurate, tight fit. For MDF, the screws and glue may be better. I glue all sides and front and rear... all access is done through the woofer hole. To glue the crossover components... E6000 glue, Alene's 7800, or Goop Automotive Adhesive and Sealant. These are all the same, which are "SBR" adhesives. That is Styrene Butadyene Rubber. It dries clear, and is very, very slightly flexible. It bonds dissimilar materials very well. I have not had a coil come loose yet with this stuff. Predrill all holes. The screws will hole well without breaking up the materal around it, and thus, actually a better hold. Woofers MUST have T-nuts behind them. Screwing into the baffle only is OK, but only with light drivers. Heavy pro drivers as used for Pi Spkrs, wood screws only will not do.
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| Black pan screws for mounting small drivers [message #36490 is a reply to message #36462] |
Fri, 17 May 2002 12:07 |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18791
Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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I agree with you. I'm not really talking about cabinet construction but I like using these screws for mounting small and medium format drivers to the baffle. For that purpose, A pan screw as used for drywall is perfect. I used to hand paint the screws black, but now I use the 1" long #8 pan screws shown below, and get them from www.idxmart.com, part number 1F943-26637.Fasteners: US Standard: Steel: Screws, Wood, Pan, Particle Board, Phillips, Type A Point, Black Finish
Seller: LGI
Part Number: 1F943-26637
Package Size: 100
Diameter: #8
Length: 1
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