I have to confess to being less than knowledgeable on veneering, but two things come to mind. The bubbles are either out-gassing from the adhesive in which case releasing the gas with a pin and then rolling should work; or, you aren't putting two coats of glue on the veneer and substrate and therefore not getting a complete bond. Especially at the edges. There is a recommended vendor,(on the Asylum) tape-ease (www.tapease.com) that sells NBS backed veneer that's supposed to eliminate the glitches and the owner said to be very accessible and helpful on the fone. Iron-on veneer tape has worked well for decades to hide the plywood edges and eliminate the need to miter. As mhammill suggests solid edges are a great alternative too and you might try leaving the edgeing corners proud of the casework for an architectural look which also hides any inconsistent joints. Dowels add visual interest as do splines. I'm thinking of extending the front baffle 3/4" beyond each of the sides and rounded over with a piece of brass glued into the coener ceated by the transition from the back of the baffle piece onto the side piece.Maple and Walnut, excellent contrast. I mix a lot of Maple and Honduran Mahogany. In fact the Ten Pi's will be that with perhaps Bubinga accents. Hey George, you and Greg want to come by and dust the L.R. after? I'll buy the beer. By all means create audio furniture and show us the result!
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