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Cabinet Help [message #36039]

Fri, 19 April 2002 13:41

SteveBrown
Messages: 330
Registered: May 2009

Grand Master

Well, I'm about dive into these pi things... I'm planning on the Thermionic 3pi and I'm wondering about the woodworking. I've made lots of other speaker enclosures but I find consistent problems. Maybe it's because I'm too focused on making furniture, rather than an enclosure. I'd like to use a nice hardwood finish (Plywood or veneer). Here are my concerns and I'd love to get your helpful hints:

1. hardwood plywood is very expensive, one miss cut and it's big $. If I use plywood I'll have to put a miter on the corners. I have a table saw but somehow I never get those miters to come out just perfectly. Help?

2. If I go MDF with a veneer, I've had some problems with bubbles under the veneer (paper backed applied w/contact cement). It always looks flat after I roller it, but the bubbles appear after a day or two. Help?

3. Overall, which do you all prefer and why?

4. Last, from a design standpoint, I'm kind of thinking about maple around the sides and walnut for the baffle. Thoughts?

Thanks for the help.
Steve

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Till E. help this guy out! (nt) [message #36040 is a reply to message #36039]

Fri, 19 April 2002 17:27

replay
Messages: 284
Registered: May 2009

Grand Master

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Re: Cabinet Help [message #36041 is a reply to message #36039]

Fri, 19 April 2002 18:13

mhammill
Messages: 23
Registered: May 2009

Chancellor

I find it less expensive, easier, and quicker, to use hardwood ply with solid wood corners of the same or even a different species. Making the corners by gluing and clamping 1x4 or 1x6 and then triming to 1/4-1" edge pieces with the table saw, then finish with a trim bit on the router after assembly. You can use a round over bit for a radius if you like and the corners won't damage as easily as mitered ones can. Besides my table saw tilts towards the fence so its no good for miters. I love the evolution fence I have but my saw is hammered, I want to get one of thoose rigid 2424 saws that has the tilt away blade then I will build a larger table and mount a router plate in it.
All I need is more time and money.
Later
Mike H.

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Re: Cabinet Help [message #36042 is a reply to message #36039]

Fri, 19 April 2002 18:44

BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009

Illuminati (2nd Degree)

I have to confess to being less than knowledgeable on veneering, but two things come to mind. The bubbles are either out-gassing from the adhesive in which case releasing the gas with a pin and then rolling should work; or, you aren't putting two coats of glue on the veneer and substrate and therefore not getting a complete bond. Especially at the edges.
There is a recommended vendor,(on the Asylum) tape-ease (www.tapease.com) that sells NBS backed veneer that's supposed to eliminate the glitches and the owner said to be very accessible and helpful on the fone.
Iron-on veneer tape has worked well for decades to hide the plywood edges and eliminate the need to miter.
As mhammill suggests solid edges are a great alternative too and you might try leaving the edgeing corners proud of the casework for an architectural look which also hides any inconsistent joints. Dowels add visual interest as do splines.
I'm thinking of extending the front baffle 3/4" beyond each of the sides and rounded over with a piece of brass glued into the coener ceated by the transition from the back of the baffle piece onto the side piece.Maple and Walnut, excellent contrast. I mix a lot of Maple and Honduran Mahogany. In fact the Ten Pi's will be that with perhaps Bubinga accents.
Hey George, you and Greg want to come by and dust the L.R. after? I'll buy the beer.
By all means create audio furniture and show us the result!

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Re: Cabinet Help [message #36043 is a reply to message #36042]

Fri, 19 April 2002 20:08

SteveBrown
Messages: 330
Registered: May 2009

Grand Master

Thanks for the advice! It sounds like you're suggesting putting banding on the exposed plywood edges and then using butt joints? I've seen that done with some bookcases and other furniture. You also said, "you might try leaving the edgeing corners proud of the casework for an architectural look" I'm not sure I follow this one. Can you expand on this a bit?

Last, if I do decide to miter the cornes, I seem to remember that there are router bits that can do this, and some that even make locking joints, any experience using these? Are they accurate?
Thanks!
Steve

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Another point to wory about. [message #36044 is a reply to message #36039]

Sat, 20 April 2002 02:56

Erik from Holland
Messages: 36
Registered: May 2009

Baron

If i would buy a nice plywood sheet with fineer, i would have another problem. If you would make a joint connection, the only way to let the fineer reach eachother in the edges is to make a cold diagonal joint.
Otherwise, the fineer would stop a few millimeters for the edge, depending on the type of joint you choose.

So, whats best, first make a enclosure and fineer it later, or buy a already finered sheet?

Greetingzzz, Eirikr.

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Re: Cabinet Help [message #36045 is a reply to message #36043]

Sat, 20 April 2002 05:55

mhammill
Messages: 23
Registered: May 2009

Chancellor

I've seen those miter bits work well with a table mounted router with a good fence, nice clean joint. I don't know if I would try it with just a guide for my final finish on a miter.

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