I'm thinking either a double dado or single dado.

double dado
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|xx|________
|xxxx|
|xxxx|
|xxxx|

single dado
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|xxxx|______
|xxxx|
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|xxxx|

Got an interesting idea though. Use dowels at a 45 degree angle, coming all the way out both surfaces of the cabinet, out just far enough not to actually go into the cabinet. Then cut em off and sand flat.. Would definately help the joint, might be hard to drill at a 45, might look neato though.

There are about as many different joint as there are different speaker drivers! some fundamentally better than other and some are just preference! If you were to invert your your double rabbit joint, it would be a little stronger. Since the speaker box will not be seen from the inside and has no conflicting internal parts. I prefer to use and inside glue block that is screwed into the corners (not nailed).

Your idea for corner dowels is similar to "through dovetails" and would look great! you would need a jig with a drill bushing that you could clamp onto the corner of the box, and a very sharp brad point drill. maybe someone with more veneer experiance would have an idea. I would probably make one fixture that was the length of the corner. this would have all the dowel hole in it, and able to take different drill bushings. this way you could drill one series of holes undersize. replace all the drill bushings, and drill your final sized hole. this would give you a clean hole on the final pass. a lot of work huh? cool design! have fun.

Bill

I've always used poplar for cleating - a buddy of mine put together a box for me using the worst 3/4" square pine I've seen - almost all split :~( need to do a cleat replacement.. couldn't get him to pick up my poplar boards to rip - anyhow, what woods do you prefer for cleating and on-edge braces? (other than plywood/MDF)

also - would you make cleats 3/4" square or a bit larger? ( got some big boxes ahead)

Freddy

I have always made the cleat from the same material the carcus is made from. This will keep the wood all of the same stability. In the case of veneered plywood. I have used both maple and oak since they are strong and the screw will have less tendancy to work its way into the cleat and becoming lose. I like to make the cleats 1" or 3/4 x 1 anyway.

I have not tried it yet, but I hear some people like the Gorilla Glue. suposed to be good for end grains in corner joints and the like. I think a real problem is you need about 5 years of expanding and contracting with the season changes to be able to see how a joint is going to hold up.
To offer a suggestion of yet even more work! put two coats of finish on the inside of the box too.

Bill

Like This:
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|xxxxxx____
|xxxxxe|ooo|
|_____|ooo|________________
|ooooooooo|
|ooooooooo|
|ooooooooo|
|ooooooooo|

Also, with those screws from the inside, would you reccomend screwing them while the glue was drying or afterward?

glue up the all 4 pieces

clamp from top to bottom, 2 or 3 clamps per side.

make sure the box is sqaure. measure corner to corner and tweak the angle of the clamps until you get the same measurment.

glue and scew your corner blocks in now, dont wait!

chech for sqare again.

tips:
pre drill and countersink all holes in the blocks. the screw should slide right through the block. remove any chips/burrs from backside.

put all screws into the side first ( the piece with the "o")
then screw into the top or bottom, the screws will work with the clamps.

you'll need a slower setting glue like a liquid hide or a plastic resin. yellow glue will set too fast for you.

make sure your corner blocks are shorter than the sides. you still need the front and back to drop in.

other thoughts:
you could use this joint on the front and back too. in which case i would assemble the top and two sides with the corner blocks.
slide the front and back pannels in with glue.
then put the bottom on. now you can reach into the woofer hole to to get at the bottom glue blocks. now you have a great reason to get more clamps!

Soon i will post a few pics of my projects on this site, so keep looking for messages from "Erik from Holland"

ByeBye!

oooh tilted parallelogram cabinets :-)

I've done some testing myself, and steel framed VCR's that frustrate you for days then won't play anymore fair very well on drop tests. You can't throw it high enough, requiring the use of simulated dropping technology(sledgehammer).