1) I understand how to solder the tweeter compensations "block" together, but I've got a dumb question. Does it matter which leads go to the positive and negative posts? I believe I read that Wayne was hooking the silver wire to positive and the gold to negative, which is backward from what I've always figured.

2) I think this is how the woofer compensation/crossover connecction is supposed to work: One wire goes directly from the + (or - ?) post of the crossover to the + (- ?) post of the woofer. Another wire goes from the opposite post of the crossover to one lead of the resistor (R3), out the other lead to the capacitor (C5), to a wire connected to the other post at the woofer. Sound right?

With all the time I've already put into these things, I just want to make sure it's done right.

One last thing for Wayne: since I'm this close, do you think I could get some Pi symbols sent to me to be proudly displayed on the front? Also, have you got any problem with me painting the symbols gold? (You'll see why when I get the finished pictures)

Thanks,
Kevin

I use the "silver" or "banded" wire as positive, merely as a standard convention. It doesn't matter, as long as you keep track of what goes where. It would be just as proper to use the "silver" or the "banded" leads as negative, as long as the standard were maintained throughout the installation.

The crossover's "+" woofer output goes directly to the woofer's "+" terminal and the crossover's "-" goes directly to the woofer's "-" lug. Then, the woofer damper goes across the woofer, using the extra pair of lugs. So you'll have one lug from the woofer connected to R3 and the other lug connected to C5. Then, take the unconnected lead from R3 and the unconnected lead from C5 and connect them together.

If you'll send me your mailing address, I'll mail you a couple decals in your choice of black or silver. Or I could probably have the shop make some gold colored ones, if you like.