(x2) Eminence Delta 15A 290-418
(x2) Eminence PSD2002-8 horn driver 290-442
(x2) Eminence H290 horn lens 290-554
(x2) Eminence pxb2-1k6 crossover 290-634
(x2) 8 ohm 100W non-inductive resistor 019-020
(x2) 20uF 250V polypro cap 027-436
(x16) 16 ohm 10W non-inductive resistor 004-16
(x2) .47uF 400V by-pass cap 027-458

Cabinets: I've already purchased the 3/4" MDF and 1"x2" bracing wood. I'll probably buy a Jasper Jig to cut the circles with my plunge router.

Binding Post: Any suggestions? Is a terminal cup necessary? What's good enough for Wayne is good enough for me.

Port Tube: I read in the archives that it would be okay to use 4"x4" PVC. True or false?

Damping Material: 2" fiber filler? What is this stuff? Does it have paper on the back like fiberglass? What's the model/brand so I can just ask for it at the building supply store.

Hookup Wire: I think that's what you'd call it (never built a speaker before). The stuff that'll go from the crossover to the drivers. Should I be using speaker wire? Any specific suggestions?

I think that should about cover it. Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance guys. I only knew enough to ask these questions after searching the archives, I just want to be positive before purchasing anything. Thanks in advance.

Kevin

When I build speakers I rarely use jack terminals, cos they can get faulty over long periods of time.

The best to use is Speakon Sockets and plugs, cos You can lock the cable, to stop it from being pulled out. Gold binding posts are okay for studio use or bedroom HI-Fi, where it doesn't get moved about much, but avoid using them if you make your equipment mobile, cos the bare strands can come adrift and touch each other.

Thanks for responding so quickly. I thought there were problems connecting the CH-3 to the PSD2002-8. Something about needing an adapter? Is that no longer an issue?

Kevin

Kevin

The CH-3's are threaded horns.

Adam