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Re: The Sawboard: a circular saw guide that works! [message #33578 is a reply to message #33571] |
Fri, 20 July 2001 08:08 |
AudioLapDance
Messages: 40 Registered: May 2009
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Baron |
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Thanks for the reply Akouo! I would love to get a drill press but for alot of the drilling I do it would be inappropriate--I can't imagine trying to lug my theater Seven Pi cabinets under a drill press! A hand drill jig/brace would be way easier! Do you have a name for the tool you mentioned? Thanks, Jeff
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Re: The Sawboard: a circular saw guide that works! [message #33579 is a reply to message #33578] |
Fri, 20 July 2001 23:50 |
Akouo
Messages: 7 Registered: May 2009
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Esquire |
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The tool I mentioned is mainly used for tapping, you can get it from metal tooling supply companies. Going back to the drill press. Go down to the local Home Depot, buy their smallest drill press ($40). Before you assemble it, cut the support shaft in half. Now, when you assemble it, just mount the head and the base. Take a jig saw and cut a nice big 4" hole in the base. Voila, you have a portable (25lb) drill press. Buy a very deep throat clamp and a ratchet strap. Strap or clamp the front of the base when you are drilling. You will now drill vertical hole with v ery high placement accuracy. Your only limitations in drilling is the size of the drill. We have two, a .33hp-35lb-$40 and a .75hp-110lb-$130 of cheap Chinese "portable" drill presses. We sometimes use them to drill holes on 1.5" thick steel vertical plates on 65,000 lbs. hot presses. I figured this is far easier then getting the boys to tote the the presses over to the mill, especially after lunch. Buy the way, they (HomeDespots) also have a small "drill press" that you attache your drill to. JUNK!
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Re: The Sawboard: a circular saw guide that works! [message #33844 is a reply to message #33579] |
Mon, 10 September 2001 15:49 |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Akouo, that is a wonderfully elegant solution to the problem of accuracy with hand drilling. I had to read your description twice to realise that the work table is gone; just drilling through the base onto the workpiece. Wow. If you're veneering, you could even forgo the clamp and screw the base right onto the work.
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