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braces for enclosures? [message #33217] Thu, 19 April 2001 12:03 Go to next message
jazzbo is currently offline  jazzbo
Messages: 14
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
Hi Wayne-

Thank you for the answers to my many questions via email. I thought I would switch venues so perhaps others could also benifit. I have been surfing many websites relating to building speaker cabinets. A common feature of cabinets the size that i am proposing to build (pro four pi) have substantial bracing, and in some cases 1" mdf of two layers of 3/4" mdf are employed.

Are such measures necessary for the cabinets that you have designed?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Tom

Re: braces for enclosures? [message #33218 is a reply to message #33217] Thu, 19 April 2001 15:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18783
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
You certainly can't overbrace. I install bracing at least every 18" on large panels, and that's what I recommend to others too.
Speaking of bracing [message #33221 is a reply to message #33218] Fri, 20 April 2001 07:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Randy Bey is currently offline  Randy Bey
Messages: 15
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
on mikekelly's 10 Pis he wanted to know how to brace the large, diagonal flare of the bass horn.

I said either a 2x4 along it's middle in the back or even a 4x4.

Is this sound thinking? In other words, less and larger v. more and smaller?

ten Pi injection foam - VERY IMPORTANT [message #33222 is a reply to message #33221] Fri, 20 April 2001 07:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne_Parham is currently offline  Wayne_Parham
Messages: 123
Registered: May 2009
Master
Cross-braces are very good in cabinets that need the airspace as part of a back chamber or something. But where chambers are formed that are just dead space, I suggest using injection form instead. This does two things - It braces the panels AND it fills the dead air space.

The trick is to drill holes to use for filling. Be very careful with this - overfilling will split the panels with ease. I have found that the "quick curing" foam avaliable at local hardware stores does not cure in a homogenous mass, so it will grow in "stalagtites" within the cabinet and can split the cabinet long before it is full. So be careful with this stuff.

...and fill holes with hardwood plugs. [message #33225 is a reply to message #33222] Fri, 20 April 2001 18:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne_Parham is currently offline  Wayne_Parham
Messages: 123
Registered: May 2009
Master
I forgot to add that we drill the holes in the back and bottom of the cabinet. After filling the "dead chambers" with expansion foam, we install hardwood plugs in the holes. This makes an attractive solution.

Hardwood plugs are available at most hardware stores. They're usually available in many sizes, and I prefer to use the 1/2" diameter plugs. They're essentially 1/2" dowel rods that have been cut into 3/8" length sections. That's another way to create plugs for exotic woods - if premade plugs can't be found.

Window foam.. [message #33226 is a reply to message #33222] Sat, 21 April 2001 10:03 Go to previous message
Jack Gilvey is currently offline  Jack Gilvey
Messages: 4
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
I saw a new (?) type of injectable foam at Home Depot yesterday, made for sealing gaps around windows, from the same company that puts out the other ones. It claimed that it wouldn't bow them, so it seems to expand with less pressure. Might be less risky/easier to use, but I don't know how its affectiveness is, well, affected.
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