You can guess what I recommended by the simple existence of this post, and how he responded.

Actually, he was pretty psyched. He's all over this idea.

Being a newbie, he has many questions, of course I answer as best as possible, but we all know how "unbelievable" some of the stuff I tell him sounds.

For example, the parts for the crossover. His first response was go to Rat Shack and buy the stuff needed. I smiled at his faux pax and tried to gently tell him he needed to spend HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS for "hifi" quality caps and inductors, certainly nothing Rat Shack has to offer fits the bill.

The foolishness of what I was saying -- that this neophyte to hifi would tell the difference between different manufacturers caps -- was written all over his face. I ultimately said he should look to good, industrial quality parts from a reputable manufacturer, and if some day he thinks he can hear the difference between a Panasonic cap and a Hovland, then, by all means, pop for the new parts.

Having said all that, what would people regard to be good quality yet inexpensive parts to use? I mention Panasonic, but there are several manufacturers (where caps cost a buck or two v. 50 or 60) out there.

I've seen a lot of your posts around here and at the Klipsch board as well. I'm glad to see people active in keeping the audio hobby (sickness?) alive! I would strongly consider ordering a free copy of the Parts Express catalog. They offer premium crossover parts as well as house brand parts of high quality at great prices. They have most everything you could need and I'm confident that your taking a big step up from Rat Shack parts. Jerrod

I don't necesarily recommend expensive audiophile parts. But I do strongly suggest these criteria be met:

1. Caps under 1uF should be polypropylene film, metal foil caps. They don't cost much, so there's no point in getting a less optimal part.

2. Caps over 1uf can be metalized polypropylene film instead. It's hard to find large film/foil caps, and one would pretty much have to use an expensive brand to get a film/foil much larger than 1uF. I'd prefer film/foil, but not for 30 bucks as opposed to a buck and a half.

3. If you need a huge cap, build it with parallel values of a smaller one. Don't go electrolytic.

4. Coils should be air core, unless large enough that resistance grows above 1/2 ohm or so.

5. Resistors should always be non-inductive and not wirewound. Wirewound resistors (obviously) have an inductive component. I mean to say that they are partially inductive devices, rather than being purely resistive.

Jerrod's suggestion of www.PartsExpress.com is a good one. All of the items I've just mentioned can be found there.

Glad to see your friend is getting the DIY bug.

A quick story: Friend had some mod sized commercial speakers. Spent nearly $750 on the pair (and felt he'd spent a lot). Heard my big DIY speakers. Asked if I could improve his. Pulled out the orig. XO (cheap electros, tiny coils). ordered some decent polyprop caps and some 16 ga. air core coils and few resistors and such for simple zobels. Owner was blown away by improvment. Cost him about $50 and actually made the speakers listenable (for me).

Moral or the story: Ya get what ya pays for......but ya don't hafta spend a bundle to get decent sound.

PS