Hi, you can try the (cheap, red colour) LED bias - schematic and wiring details are here. Center of your loctal socket can be a "local" (driver) grounding point, you can solder the minus pole of your last filter cap (from the driver supply) here, too. From that point, one wire to the one and only star (chasis) ground point. R1 and R9 are "stopper" resistors and must be non inductive, HQ (say CC or tantalum), and soldered close to the pins. Two red LEDs are connected in series, their leads must be short, too. Of course, CCS version is showed, for interstage version you must make some minor corrections.
Interestingly, with my speakers I have almost too much those low mids, ha. Deep bass - yesss!
Try this, and please report back...good luck!

• http://www.audioroundtable.com/GroupBuild/Projects/SE300B_C3g_driver.jpg

i had 3 to 3,2 volt cathode bias with the 280 ohm resistor and 190v on the anode (c3g)
with the red leds i have 3.65 and 210 volt on the anode
have i used the wrong leds?
can i leave it this way or must i chance it?
regards Robert

I ama also think of building thsi amp as it is VERY well documented and you have obviously spent a great deal of time evaluating the option which really help us folk out here.

I currently have most if not all the parts - althought not exactley the same if you get my drift.

I currently have a version of Thorstens Legacy amp (but using conventional power supply CLC) but have also got some C3G to try out - I have not really gotten on very well with this and I am not sure why? The highs seem a bit grainy and the bass a little bloaty - I am sure it could be the non regulated power supply which I do not feel really confident in putting togther.

Just a quick question before I move to your project - how do you go about determining the value of the grid stopper and do differnt value really have any effect on the sound?

Thank

Red