| PCB for the CCS [message #30541] |
Tue, 15 February 2005 07:04  |
Damir
Messages: 1005
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Here`s the PCB "proposal", I hope that it`ll works without (capacitive/oscillations) problems. I didn`t try it, so far :-).
See that "stopper" resistors R2 & R4 must be mounted with it`s "body" close to the G-pin, "upward". Fix the heatsink somehow (little screws left and right through the board, or...?).
Without "proper", photo process it can be made with nail-polish, then Fe-III-chlorid. Be carefull, good luck!
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| Re: PCB for the CCS [message #30546 is a reply to message #30544] |
Tue, 15 February 2005 12:12  |
Damir
Messages: 1005
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Who needs them?:-) Large part of this hobby is pleasure when you build something all by yourself - allright, "home made" PCB probably won`t looks too proffesional, but so what? 
You can buy PCBs in electronic store, adjust dimensions of the little board and traces to your components (little planning in 1:1 on the paper), clean the Cu, then with alcohol-marker draw the traces, and paint them with your favorite nail-polish (avoid glittering one, just ordinary :-)). Buy Fe-III-Chlorid christals (el. store, too), put them in the PVC glass of water, put the board in and wait. "Mix up" a little, it can last a few hours - but then the unprotected Cu "go away", clean the lacquer with polish remover (acetone). Use ~0,9mm bore, few holes and that`s it. Use rubber gloves. Check the traces before and after soldering on little particles and dirt between the traces. Good luck!
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| the 12B4 option... [message #30548 is a reply to message #30547] |
Tue, 15 February 2005 13:10 |
PakProtector
Messages: 935
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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If you don't need as much gain as the 5687 delivers( u=~16 ), the 12B4 is my next option. It takes a second 9-pin socket, and ought to have 6 or 7, instead of 2 LED's to bias. That's about *IT*. The heaters will take ~25% more curent, at 0.6 amp instead of 0.45 amp of the 5687. Both will run at 12.6 V. I offer this as an alternative to the gymnastics a lot of ForePlay owners go through getting a reasonable amount of volume knob sensitivity. We're not stuck with 12AU7's so there is no need to act like it at the design table. Putting in a second socket later oughtn't to be too difficult. Take out the valves before drilling more holes. Reserve a bit of real estate with a Sharpie....
regards,
Douglas
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| Oh...yes! [message #30550 is a reply to message #30549] |
Tue, 15 February 2005 14:10 |
PakProtector
Messages: 935
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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I have only one defense: everybody( with a power TX ), is still working on layout. The option was more of a suggestion to consider chassis design with furhter experiemntation ( of unknown details ). Don't shoot me please! Actually, I'd live to have everybody out for a long weekend where we actually put Guinevere together and test for smoke leaks and listen. Lowe's has SS hardware, and there is always Radio Shack in 3 different locations in case we need something that wasn't brought.
regards,
Douglas
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| Re: Oh...yes! [message #30552 is a reply to message #30551] |
Tue, 15 February 2005 14:35 |
PakProtector
Messages: 935
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Well, anytime after 1100 this Saturday would be fine. No beer for me. Diet Dr.Pepper would be fine. regards,
Douglas
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