A table saw is a great tool to have for cabinet making. On the other hand, I've completed four sets of speakers in the past two years without one. My reluctance to purchase one is based on a combination of cost, space, and infrequency of use. I've been relying on my local HD to cut the panels to size for me, and to date, all cuts have been within tolerance for my needs. For small panels, I've made-do with a circular saw and cutting guide. It can be just as accurate as a table saw, but requires more time to set up properly.

Whether you need a table saw really depends on you. It'll certainly give you more flexibility and speed, and with the right jigs, allow you to do some things that you can't do otherwise. If you have the space, will use it often, and require lots of angled and bevelled cuts, then go for it. However, if you're just planning on using it to build just one set of simple squared sided cabinets, then I think there are better ways.

Gar.

I would not even consider a radial arm saw.

You might want to consider making a saw board (see link) if you're just making straight cuts. Dedicate a circ saw and you're off to the races....Colin

• http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm

Now for the second level of commitment. If your desire is to be a cabinet maker or at the least be a cabinet maker as a full time hobby. The table saw is the heart of your shop. The heart of all your work. Buy the best you can afford. this is the commitment of a liftime for unless your turn pro and start buying sliding tables as workload demands. your table saw of choice will be the heart of your shop for the rest of your life.

Funny, I remember always having to measure the fence from the miter slot for and aft the blade for every rip. Now saws have such nice fences that when you set the fence on the mark, it really cuts to that length. Nice rulers aren't good enough? you can even have a DRO these days for your rip fence!

The bottom line I see is that if its a small portable saw, contractors saw, cabinet saw or full blown slider. this is the saw that your work will evolve around. From trimming to rabetts.

Bill

1. A radial arm saw is for cross-cuts. It's very difficult to rip with due to a limited capacity and the inherent instability of the cantilevered cross arm making it prone to jams and kickback.

2. The ability of cheap radial arm saws to make good grooves, dadoes, etc...is limited by cross arm sag - you need a *very* high quality saw to get consistent depth across the entire width of the cut.

3. Table saw are made to rip. There's no doubt you can do anything on a table saw, but cross cutting an 8 foot 1X12 in half still ain't easy like it is on a radial arm saw. That's why there ain't no table saws at your local big-box pretend lumber yard for in-house use, only panel saws and radial arm saws.

4. Table saws are inherently superior to radial arm saws when it comes to stability - no cross arm flopping around. With a table saw it's easy to get consistent-depth dadoes and grooves.

5. I had only a radial arm saw for about 15 years. I dreaded using it every time I had to rip something and often thought up alternatives just to avoid using it. I made as many cross cuts on my 10" mitre saw as possible too.

6. I've had the DeWalt portable table saw for about 5 years now and haven't fired up the radial arm but one time since I got the DeWalt. The DeWalt has just an amazingly accurate, stable fence. Like Bill M. says, if you're used to taking 3 minutes on each cut to measure the fore and aft distance from the blade to the fence for every cut you'll think you've died and gone to heaven with the DeWalt at only $500. My only possible regret is not buying the equivalent Bosch saw. The Bosch soft-start motor is a nice feature - I think it probably leads to steadier nerves at the end of the day.

• The DeWalt 10" portable saw