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Need help with Polyurathane. [message #29165] Tue, 20 July 2004 08:47 Go to next message
James W. Johnson is currently offline  James W. Johnson
Messages: 199
Registered: May 2009
Master

The guy at Lowe's suggested I use a low nap mohair roller....boy was he wrong. After applying the first coat I hurried as fast as I could to try and undo the bubbly mess the roller made with a brush. I smoothed it out and scraped off as much excess poly as I could.
It turned out better than I expected but still the coat was too thick.
How can I fix this? Will over sanding the poly mess up anything for further coats?

I am using Minwax fast drying satin.

Please help!

They sure look good from 2' and camera shots though. :D... but that wont do , I need close inspection good looks to some degree.


Re: Need help with Polyurathane. [message #29166 is a reply to message #29165] Tue, 20 July 2004 10:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill Fitzmaurice is currently offline  Bill Fitzmaurice
Messages: 335
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
Tell the guy at Lowe's to stick with painting barns. What kind of finish are you trying to achieve? The easiest method with poly is to apply with a pad, sand with 220 grit between coats to keep it smooth and then kiss it with a final coat sprayed on. Start by sanding down what you have with 120 to get a decently smooth base.

More advanced techniques involve wet sanding with superfine grits and then buffing with different grits of rubbing/polishing compounds.

Re: Need help with Polyurathane. [message #29167 is a reply to message #29166] Tue, 20 July 2004 14:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James W. Johnson is currently offline  James W. Johnson
Messages: 199
Registered: May 2009
Master
Thank you.

What kind of pads should I buy? I am unable to spray because I dont have the equipment, is there another way of doing it?

I am going to have some serious sanding to do to get back to where I was, I wonder if it would be ok to use a radom orbit sander for this first sanding?

I am not ready for anything more advanced than what you mentioned above.

As far as the finish I am trying to achieve goes..I just want a smooth and clear satin finish that will last for many years.



Re: Need help with Polyurathane. [message #29168 is a reply to message #29167] Wed, 21 July 2004 10:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill Fitzmaurice is currently offline  Bill Fitzmaurice
Messages: 335
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
Simple painting pads, they measure various sizes. Available any where. These leave a minimum of finish texturing. The spray coat can be done with an aerosol urethane. A random orbit sander will leave swirl marks that will have to be removed by straight-line sanding, either by machine or elbow grease. I use a random orbit to get the wood ready for a finish, up to 220 grit. I then use a dark grain filler, which makes the swirl marks easily visible. I then use a straight line sander to take off the excess grain filler, and the swirl marks with it.

Re: Need help with Polyurathane. [message #29169 is a reply to message #29168] Thu, 22 July 2004 08:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James W. Johnson is currently offline  James W. Johnson
Messages: 199
Registered: May 2009
Master
Bill, Lowes refunded my money on the gallon of poly and mohair roller after I told the manager what advice I was given.

I then purchases some wipe on poly and a can of naptha as per suggested by another guy on the interenet.

I went ahead and hand sanded the first nasty heavy coat of poly until the finish was smooth again just to be safe. Considering I have sanded this veneer so much already I was not going to risk having an orbital make matters unrepairable.

Anyhow it was not all that bad after all, 3 coats of wipe on poly did the trick, naptha really helped with keeping the surface clean between coats...I also lightly sanded after 1 and 2.

Last but certainly not least and why I am posting here is because you are the one who recommended the final coat of a spray on...ohhh man! That did the trick!!!!!
I sprayed 3 very light coats from 12" and fairly quick sprays with the canned minwax satin poly and the finish is truly beautiful and complete!
It really set it off nicely, now the finish looks like I want it, sort of a natural satiny matte finish with just a slight texture to it.
Heck I even think that first coat with a roller actually helped because it coated everything so thickly , all I had to do was knock it down.

Well its not perfect but neither is the veneer job but I am quite happy with the results considering this is my first successful veneer job and I have never finished raw wood before.

This is about my 20th speaker project ...its about time I learned how to use veneer and polyurathane. :-) I am sick of formica!

Anyhow next time I think I'll stay away from the poly and try a natural oil finish!

Thanks for the help!



pics.. [message #29170 is a reply to message #29169] Thu, 22 July 2004 08:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James W. Johnson is currently offline  James W. Johnson
Messages: 199
Registered: May 2009
Master
http://home.comcast.net/~bentvalve/pi.htm

Tung Oil [message #29171 is a reply to message #29169] Fri, 23 July 2004 05:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill Fitzmaurice is currently offline  Bill Fitzmaurice
Messages: 335
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
Tung is fabulous because it's almost impossible to screw it up. I use poly when I want a 'piano' finish with the grain completely filled, but it's a lot of work to get it right. Tung oil doesn't fill the grain but when that's not a concern it's the best and easiest route to a nice finish.

Re: Tung Oil [message #29172 is a reply to message #29171] Fri, 23 July 2004 07:11 Go to previous message
GarMan is currently offline  GarMan
Messages: 960
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
Loooooove tung oil. Like Bill said, very hard to screw up. And no stripping required for future refinishing.

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