Any advice on working with exotics? [message #28887] |
Mon, 22 December 2003 13:33 |
gonefishin
Messages: 48 Registered: May 2009
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Baron |
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Hi All! Any advice on working with exotic woods? Such as cocobola and ebony? I want to build myself a new chassis for a Foreplay...and have been thinking of incorporating both cocobola (for the main chassis) and ebony for the footers...or feeters...or whatever they are.
thanks!
enjoy the music!
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Re: You've entered the no carving zone ! [message #28888 is a reply to message #28887] |
Mon, 22 December 2003 13:58 |
Bill Martinelli
Messages: 677 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (1st Degree) |
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I like the super hard and difficult woods as long as they don't need to be carved or require a lot of hand work. They "machine" very nicely with sharp tools and carbide is just about a must! Some of these difficult woods are getting close to how aluminum works. So with your woodworking tool things have to be sharp, sturdy and make light passes. Lots of the exotics are very oily, like coco bolo. You'll want to wipe it down with lacquer thinner or alcohol before making any glue joints. For this application I would also suggest enduring the misery and use a polyurethane glue. All the problems are worth the time and trouble when the wood looks good in the end.
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Re: You've entered the no carving zone ! [message #28889 is a reply to message #28888] |
Mon, 22 December 2003 14:27 |
gonefishin
Messages: 48 Registered: May 2009
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Baron |
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Thanks for the comments (could you guys work on a reply with quote feature?) These things are definitely hard...I think I've used some steel that was softer than the Ebony...sheesh. One of my wonders about these woods. How do they router? I could imagine that the bits have to be kept sharp...but are there any other concerns? I have noticed that these woods (especially cocbola) are extremely oily. Thanks for the tip on gluing. Is there any concern to using this oily wood on the top plate of a tubed preamp or tube amp? I wouldn't imagine the heat from the preamp tubes being much of a concern. But, could the heat from a power amp have adverse effects on the oily wood? perhaps drying it out...or...whatever??? Also...some of these woods are sooo darn purty, you'd be a fool to do anything to the finish. But...with that said. Are there enough oils in the wood to act as a natural protectant...or do these woods need to have some sort of finish applied...not to beautify...or to add an effect...but to protect the wood??? oh so many questions?????? thanks!
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Re: You've entered the no carving zone ! [message #28890 is a reply to message #28889] |
Mon, 22 December 2003 15:12 |
Bill Martinelli
Messages: 677 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (1st Degree) |
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Hi Dan,Yep, tons of feature that need work. I have a difficult enough time with veneer let alone C++. The features are not up to me to build in but they are being worked on. No experience with an oily wood in a hot area. I don't imagine it will be a fire hazard and after you finish the wood it will be pretty much sealed. The natural oils of the wood will eventually dry out, but this shouldn't present too much trouble. As with all natural things anything can happens. The wood could last an eternity just as it is, or the ends could dry out and check. The long time tradition to help the wood to last an eternity is to use a finish that will seal it from the environment. That's why better furniture has at least a few sealer cotes of finish on the inside that will never be seen. A router wont be a problem. A vari speed router set to a slower setting might be helpful. If the wood is really hard and or knarly. you have to make a few passes to get your cut. If you make a pass or two with a router, I would leave yourself a very small amount that you can make one last pass, as a kiss pass. This lets you glide the piece through the router, (or the router through the piece) with very little force yet maintain even pressure and speed of feed. Some of the exotics have some very nasty dust when worked and a mask is important. Some people are allergic to exotic woods. Coco bola can be one of them. Never heard of a problem with ebony. well, other than if your blade is not sharp your going to be in prime competition for a smoke show and starting a fire with out a match, along with the boy scouts
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Re: Any advice on working with exotics? Just say "No" [message #28894 is a reply to message #28887] |
Fri, 26 December 2003 09:16 |
TC
Messages: 41 Registered: May 2009
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Baron |
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Just say "no". Ebony has left the planet! Makng clarinet end bells used to reuire 5 blanks to get one right (without cracks). Now 250 blans are spun to find ONE that won't blow up. Over cutting has left the specie undesireable for any use but sustaining itself as a specie. "ebonize" maple or other hard wood. TC
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Re: Any advice on working with exotics? [message #28907 is a reply to message #28887] |
Sun, 04 January 2004 10:33 |
hurdy_gurdyman
Messages: 416 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (1st Degree) |
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Enough cannot be said about using proper dust mask at all times when sanding some types of wood. A few years ago I was building a mountain dulcimer as a Christmas rush project. Much of the instrument was made of mahogony. I was sanding a lot, but sometines removed my mask because my coold workshop was causing my glasses to fog up with the mask on. On a Friday I started to get a swelling in my left upper leg. By Sunday I was one sick puppy. I went to the hospital Monday. My whole body was so swollen I couldn't lay down and had to be propped up in bed. I came down with Pnemonia that same day. I spent three days in a sitting position, propped up, gasping for every breath, sometimes not fully coherent. I almost died that week. On the fourth day, I got better and was allowed to go home in my wife's care. It was weeks before I could keep up just walking with her in a department store. A lesson for all to remember. Sawdust, especially certain more exotic woods, is nothing to trifle with. Wear that mask!Dave
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