Home » Audio » Room Acoustics » Metal wall studs?
Metal wall studs? [message #25016] Wed, 25 August 2004 10:57 Go to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
This winter (and spring and summer and fall and...)I'll be finishing my basement. My music / HT room will be 8.5' x 13.5' x 22' and I would like to use metal studs. Are there any negatives to this? I'll will be double sheeting the walls with 1/2" or 5/8" gypsum wall board. Studs will be set 16" on-center with cross bracing and insulation between studs.

Is this going to be bad (too much wall flex.) The reason for using metal studs in the first place is cost - pure and simple. Should I just cough up the extra cash for wood studs or am I going to be OK?.....Colin

Re: Metal wall studs? [message #25018 is a reply to message #25016] Wed, 25 August 2004 15:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ranier is currently offline  Ranier
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
Sheet metal wall studs are thin and flimsy. Rooms built with them jiggle like jello and you don't want that.
Ranier

Thanks [message #25019 is a reply to message #25018] Wed, 25 August 2004 15:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
Yeah, I was afraid of that. It would have saved some cash if it worked, but it's always best to do it right.

Re: Metal wall studs? [message #25020 is a reply to message #25016] Thu, 26 August 2004 12:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
martinleewin is currently offline  martinleewin
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
Colin;
Ranier is righty about metal studs flexing. For only a some more wood cost you can get much less resonance and transmission by building "studio walls". Use 2x6 top and bottom plates, 2x4 studs positioned alternating between front and back edges of the plates, cross bracing not needed.
This allows much more damping insulation material between sheets-- reducing res & trans. Dupont Hollowfill is better at damping lows than fiberglass. Isolation is further improved by having no studs connecting the two sheets.
You should be satisfied with single 5/8 sheeting this way.
Martin W.

Re: Metal wall studs? [message #25021 is a reply to message #25020] Thu, 26 August 2004 20:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
Messages: 1349
Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
Thank you very much for the reply and tips. The way my music room is going to be situated already lends itself to double walls. The two long walls are defined by the I-beams that support the first floor. I was going to stud on either side of these beams, so essentially making a doudle wall sans 2x6 staggered configuration (if my lame description makes sence.) I was trying to save a buck, but it looks like a poor choice on my part was diverted. I really like the idea of offset studs mounted on 2x6's - I'll measure my I-beams again and see if I can get by with this dimension.

Did you see the HT posted by darius under the HT forum? (http://www.audioroundtable.com/HomeTheater/messages/30.html) WOW!!

Thanks again, Colin

Re: Metal wall studs? [message #25045 is a reply to message #25021] Thu, 22 September 2005 04:34 Go to previous message
JLM is currently offline  JLM
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
Viscount
I've used the staggered stud walls a couple of times and they're very effective and I agree with the others here, that metal studs would be horrible (just swing a solid core door into a metal stud wall "firmly, don't slam" and watch it flex 1/2 inch or more).

A couple more ideas to think about:

1. Dedicated circuits for the equipment (try to wire to the top of the main electrical panel).

2. Use an exterior fiberglass door (insulated with weatherstrips) and stain/paint (get door with wood graining).

3. Suspend the ceiling down from the floor structure above to isolate. (Drywall can be hung from gauge metal furring strips that run opposite the structural members.)

4. Use flexible, lined, fiberglass insulated ductwork (cheap) to minimize furnace noise.

We're completing a new house with 8 ft x 13 ft x 21 ft listening room that incorporates most of the above (builder didn't want to suspend the ceiling). The additional cost for the above is minimal (wiring $20, door $50, ceiling $150, flex duct $0 for me as that's what he wanted to use anyway as it saves most of his labor).

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