| Damn Holes [message #22673] |
Fri, 24 June 2005 01:19  |
Zene Gillette
Messages: 88
Registered: May 2009
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Viscount |
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Some of the holes in my arrays for NSB's are not perfect. Soft wood does not router well. As most know the frame lip is very narrow. Panels are made from clear lacquered pine and any filler would show. They are all cut and cannot be re-done due to the complexity of design. The frames are now flat black. My first thought was a small strip of something run down the sides and in between each one. Suggestions for hiding these tiny slots? Zene
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| Re: Damn Holes [message #22675 is a reply to message #22673] |
Fri, 24 June 2005 15:12  |
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I know what you mean, I had to do some tests and shim my router bearing with masking tape to get the precision cut to make the NSB
fit perfect. Since the damage is done and you have bigger holes your
choices to repair are limited. If the front baffle is to be painted or veneered later you can fix the problem with automotive bondo. Apply masking tape to the front baffle side of the hole and add bondo to the hole to shrink diameter, a small layer with your finger.
Let cure then sand off as much as you need. The cheap solution is weather stripping on the NSB frame but it may look ugly. Trim rings may work but that is alot of work. Rear mounting the NSB is another option. Pick a poison. /hehe
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| Re: Damn Holes [message #22679 is a reply to message #22675] |
Sat, 25 June 2005 18:07 |
cmanning
Messages: 16
Registered: May 2009
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Chancellor |
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I used rope caulk. Lifetime supply is two bucks. It comes in like a one pound package and is about 1/8" in diameter. It's just enough to fill in little gaps in the counterbore for the back of the frame of the NSB. I have also used a latex non-siliconized with similar results. I depends on how much your router ran out on the CB.
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| Damn rear mounting speakers. [message #22680 is a reply to message #22673] |
Sat, 25 June 2005 23:38 |
taylor
Messages: 16
Registered: May 2009
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Chancellor |
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I cut holes that also have a small gap. Im using silicon around each hole to fill the tiny voids. Then, I made the side panels extend out from the baffle to match the length of the round lip on the front of the driver. Next, I will take a strip of black foam, lay it between two thin sacrifical pieces of plywood, and use a 4" hole saw to cut holes. When done, this foam will slip over all the drivers' rings and be attached to the baffle and now flushs the rings with the side panels,baffle and completely disguises the ugly little frames, silicon and screws. Maybe the foam will even have some positive sonic effect. taylor
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