You cut every part of the same width (including the front and back pieces very important)at the same time with the same saw fence setting. Then cross-cut the lengths.

Attach the front and back, top and bottom to one of the sides.

with the inside of teh side facing up measure, mark and draw the pattern of the sub-assemblies on it. Just position the sub-assemblies and trace them.

run a bead of urethane construction adhesive like PL 200 on the tracing and press the sub-assemblies into place. Wiggle them a bit to get a friction, or "rubbed joint" adhesion.

wait an hour

run a bead of glue on the exposed edges of the sub-assemblies

position the remaining side, wiggle a bit and weight it with 40 or 50 pounds of "stuff": books, sandbags, dead cats, whatever

wait overnight

install the driver (oh yeah, you should have installed the binding posts and run wires through the driver baffle labrynth before you glued the second side on)!

connect to a tube amp and a turntable and listen..........

Thanks,

Jeremy

• Bob Brines Site

I really like these pipes, even after listening to them for well over a year. You need to make sure you get the stuffing, port tuning and positioning right, but after that they are really sweet. I find mine are warm, slightly forward, with a really natural acoustic sound that is very easy to listen to with most of my jazz and bluegrass material. They are broken up in the treble, at least on paper, but it has never bothered me. I do have some fibrous material around the whizzer cone that seems to take some edge off them, and I prefer them this way. I've also lined the inside of the basket legs and back of the magnet with felt with good results. I added a super tweeter, but I find it kind of irritating, so I don't usually run it.

You need about twice that before the nasal upper mid goes away and double that again before they really start to bloom... your friend didn't have to put up when them when they were at their worst

dave