Home » Audio » Speaker » Earl - Which sub do you use?
Earl - Which sub do you use? [message #18311] Sun, 04 December 2005 04:21 Go to next message
Rapid is currently offline  Rapid
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Registered: May 2009
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Hello Earl Geddes,
I wonder which subwoofer you're using and why? Just curious since you seem to have good ideas. Could you also please explain what an acoustic lever is, how it works, if it can be implemented for a DIYer?

Best regards,
Mattias

Re: Earl - Which sub do you use? [message #18312 is a reply to message #18311] Sun, 04 December 2005 18:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Earl Geddes is currently offline  Earl Geddes
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Registered: May 2009
Master
As you might expect I build my own, and I use and recommend two different types.

They both use a B&C Neo 12 - don't remember #, but could get if its important.

Why two?

One is for the 25-50 Hz that the Summa cabinet size does not allow. This is a bandpass tuned to about 32 Hz covering about the octave mentioned. It has a very long port on a tall cabinet and thus has its output about five feet in the air - intentional to get it away from the floor. Takes a lot of power to drive - very inefficient, but adds a notible effect at VLF.

The second sub design, of which I have two, is also bandpass, same driver, but completely different design. This one is designed to cover a, 35Hz - 120Hz and is put into the LFE channel. It too is ver low efficiency - no tube amps here! These subs are located around the room. In my system, even in stereo, the LF are routed to the LFE channel, so in essence I have two speakers 50Hz and up (monopoles), two 35 - 120 Hz. and one 25-50 Hz. they were balance by measurements and tweeked by ear.

This seems to work in my small room, but does not seem to be required in my very large room. In the large room the single VLF sub with ported speakers works great.

The small room needs a different solution with subs placed around the room and a very well damped low end. This would be true of all small rooms.

Global solutions for frequencies above about 200 Hz. are possible, but below this the solution has to be matched to the room, and try as I do, I cannot find rules of thumb that work. Although bigger is always better - of that there is no doubt. But my home theater is small because of the sound proofing. I can use it anythime. The big hoowm upstairs is a 'cooperate with the family" issue. When I am home alone I always listen in the bigger room.

Subwoofers [message #18313 is a reply to message #18312] Mon, 05 December 2005 12:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Rapid is currently offline  Rapid
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
Hi Earl!
You wrote,
"and thus has its output about five feet in the air - intentional to get it away from the floor."
Sounds like a good idea. Is the sub placed five feet from the walls as well to get less room gain? Might be good to do if you have space or?

Isn't fs of B&C speakers too high to be used as subwoofers? How come you're not using for example Peerless XLS12, Eminence LAB12 or NHT1259?

/Mattias

Re: Subwoofers [message #18314 is a reply to message #18313] Mon, 05 December 2005 13:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Earl Geddes is currently offline  Earl Geddes
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Registered: May 2009
Master
A few feet from the wall, but not five.

Well, I have had avery good experiences with the B&C products and some not so good ones with most others. You can count on their data sheets being correct. With most companies data sheets are targets, which are only sometimes hit with any accuracy. I also buy enough that I get a good deal on them and they are already a good deal.

But remember that I am using bandpass designs. The bandpass design is ideal for subs because the fs of the driver (in its rear box) is at the center of the passband - not at the lower edge. Thus the fs of the driver is not a big issue, but box size can be. Hence the big box for my 25 - 50 Hz. sub.

I can't figure out why so few subs are bandpass - it seems ideal to me and the ones that I have made work very well when compared to the ones that I purchased - which were not bandpass.

I think that you also asked about the lever.

Think of it as a passive radiator with gain. The gain is the ratio of radiating to driven areas. Two to one is typical, resulting in about 6 dB of increased output from a given driver.

Wish someone actually made levels as I'd certainly use those if they were available.


The "T" word [message #18315 is a reply to message #18312] Wed, 07 December 2005 00:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Duke is currently offline  Duke
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Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
"Tweeked". By ear, no less!

I'm bookmarking that post.

Cheers,

Duke



Re: The "T" word [message #18316 is a reply to message #18315] Wed, 07 December 2005 07:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Earl Geddes is currently offline  Earl Geddes
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Ah yes - got caught - almost! - on that one. The sound was tweaked but only AFTER I had taken several measurements and knew what the situation was. But really, the very low end in a room, say < 100 Hz. is so hard to measure, so completely mixed up with modal patterns that "by ear" actually does work. One should take measurements, but these are never as complete as I would like and then tweak by ear within some contraints of what the measurements say.

I tweak, we all tweak in that I do use tone controls - typicaly -1 dB trebble and + 1 or 2 dB bass. The tweeaking that I was refereing to above was in setting the LFE channel level since this is hard to measure.

Hey, I couldn't resist... [message #18317 is a reply to message #18316] Wed, 07 December 2005 12:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Duke is currently offline  Duke
Messages: 297
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
Actually the process you describe - taking measurements first so that you have an idea of what's happening as you then adjust by ear - makes a lot of sense. Perhaps that should be differentiated by calling it "educated tweaking", as opposed to "magic 8-ball tweaking". If nothing else, taking the measurements can get you into the appropriate ballpark - it's easy to be twiddling a setting back and forth between 11:00 and 1:00 when you need to be between 2:00 and 4:00 but your preconceived notions don't let you go there. I've sure done that.

Quite correct [message #18318 is a reply to message #18317] Wed, 07 December 2005 12:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Earl Geddes is currently offline  Earl Geddes
Messages: 220
Registered: May 2009
Master
And actually al I was tweaking were the levels of the variuos subs and the overall LFE level. Its not possible for me to excite all the subs at one time in a manner consistant with the source usage of the LFE channel. So it is tweeking, but of a very small nature. As I said, a kin to using a treble control. But I guess to a lot of folks the trebble control in a no-no.

Levers and multiple subs [message #18319 is a reply to message #18314] Thu, 08 December 2005 12:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Rapid is currently offline  Rapid
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
Earl,
Sounds interesting about those levers. Do you get 6dB for the whole frequencyrange? I downloaded your software so I've seen what a lever looks like now (pictures are easier to understand). The frontlever looks like a bandpass sub but instead of a port it's got two passive radiators which are connected "in series", where the second has twice the area of the first. The other option is to build a rear lever which looks like a bassreflex but the port is changed into the lever I wrote about above. Right?

Wouldn't it be possible to build the lever with 3 passive radiators (two at the second stage)? What's the problem with using a large ratio of the radiating areas?

Also, I wonder about multiple subs. I think I've read somewhere that the more subs you scatter around the room, the flatter bass you'll get. Is this true?

/Mattias

Lets see [message #18320 is a reply to message #18319] Thu, 08 December 2005 13:15 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Earl Geddes is currently offline  Earl Geddes
Messages: 220
Registered: May 2009
Master
True on the multiple subs. The response gets smoother as about 1/n with n the number of subs. Big improvement with two, a lttle more with three, less with four and so on until it no longer makes any sense. You get a real output advanatge this way too.

The lever can theoretically go to any ratio, but beyong 2:1 we found that the parasitics were eating up the advantages. The mechanical parameters on the radiating side are mutiplied by the ratio squared. So acoustic mass load soon gets to be a problem, etc. Beyond 2:1 and we could not get the lever to survive very long. They get beat pretty hard. You don't have to use just one lever there can be more than one - if thats what you mean. We used two levers one driver.

You understand the lever function well enough. It can be used wherever a passive radiator is used.

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