Recently, I replaced the thrust-bearing on my 1964 Garrard Lab-80 with two stacked washers that I formed out of Teflon sheeting. The bearing had been "missing in action" for many years -- the platter riding only on the (well lubed) phenolic bearing-race (the little ball-bearings were retained in holes in the race -- and they fell out years ago when the platter was removed for some reason).

A benefit from the use of Teflon-on-Teflon is that the turntable rumble [turntable on, no record -- and amp. at full volume] had virtually disappeared. And the speed is dead-on for the first time in years.

If you perform this "operation", please let me know how it worked out for you.

However, as long as the thickness of the original thrust-bearing is matched fairly closely by the thickness of the Teflon washers (might need more than two stacked or a thicker stock), this fix should work nicely.

Let me know how this works out if you are able to apply this remedy.

Dale:

The bearing-balls were MIA in my Lab-80, also. That's what happens when you get curious and remove the TT before you realize that there is an open-construction bearing assembly waiting to surprise you.

You can maneuver the remaining phenolic race off of the spindle. Use care and a long enough tweezers or fine needle-nose pliers to grab the race. It should be able to be removed. If you can't get it off the spindle, leave it on and use thinner teflon washers.

The teflon sheet should yield washers that, stacked, are about as thick as the original thrust-bearing - I don't know how much leeway there is in the vertical position of the TT relative to the idler-wheel. You can use more than two washers -- stacked -- if you need to. Make sure that all of the edges are smooth after you cut them from the sheet -- you don't want rough edges snagging each other (I don't know if the TT simply rotates on the upper washer or the TT and the upper washer rotate on the lower washer -- don't care either because it works).

I took that race, placed it on a sheet of fairly thick teflon, traced it(pencil) onto the teflon and used an Exacto-knife to cut the inner hole first and then to cut the washer from the sheet. It took a little practice on a few samples (get a hand-sized or larger sheet of teflon) before I was able to get two acceptable teflon washers. They were a bit crude -- not perfectly round holes -- you have to make sure that any rough (flayed) edges are smoothed -- but I got them onto the spindle (stacked). The fix has worked perfectly ever since -- and the bearing rumble is gone, as a benefit.

Some shops will -- for a fee -- punch out the washers -- the inner hole must be large enough to pass the spindle -- with little "slop" -- the outer diameter should match that of the shoulder that the washer sits on.

Let me know how this works out for you ...

Regards,
>
> DanR.

I got the teflon sheet in the mail today and made some washers with a hollow punch set I borrowed from a friend at work. I applied the new alternative bearing solution, and am now listening to records on my Garrard for the first time since originally disassembling the unit! It sounds great and runs at the correct constant speed. I was pretty much convinced I had a problem with the idler assembly until reading your post and realizing my Garrard had the same bearing problem. Kudos for your help!

Dale Webb

I am really happy that the solution worked and appreciate knowing that you have succeeded in getting the TT up and running properly.

I, too, had the loss-of-bearing problem for many years and finally decided to take action.

It's interesting to note the the Lab-80 was the first TT (at least from Garrard) that used the slick-plastic Delrin in a trip-mechanism. It was used because it is light-weight and a low-friction material that would allow the trip action to work with minimal drag on the unit.

It was to your good fortune that you had access to the punch set. Cutting the washers out using the X-acto knife was not fun.

Let me know from time to time how the fix is working -- it should perform well for many years ...

Regards,

DanR.

It appears that the teflon solution works! You can (usually) get sheets of teflon from gasket-making companies. This material is used frequently to make gaskets/seals for pipe-joints, etc. I got mine from such a company -- they gave me a bunch of left-over/scrap sheets at no cost.

I saw your posting. I can envision the problem with the paddle switches -- but have not suffered that ... yet. If you are mechanically inclined -- turn the unit over -- make sure that you support it properly to avoid damaging the tone-arm and its bearings -- and examine the entire link system associated with the switches. It might be necessary to remove a shield -- especially the one over the phenolic wafer that has the grounding-switches. Manipulate the paddles and look for any type of mechanical latching mechanism that might not be activating -- maybe a spring is missing or a piece of something is bent or broken-off or something needs to be lightly lubricated. I do not have the manual so I cannot direct you to specific things -- and I really do not want to turn my unit upside-down any more than I have to ...

The arm lowering mechanism on mine did not work and I discovered that the problem was caused by old grease. A little cleaning and some liquid WD-40 (injected from a syringe with a fine needle) solved that problem. Because the TTs are now over 40 years old, you can expect to find that many problems are caused by deteriorated lubricants. Cleaning and re-lubing in recommended -- just don't get anything on the idler-wheel or on the TT inside rim.

Let me know if you solve your problem.

Regards,
Dan

> Dale;
>
> I am really happy that the solution worked and appreciate knowing that you
> have succeeded in getting the TT up and running properly.
>
> I, too, had the loss-of-bearing problem for many years and finally decided
to
> take action.
>
> It's interesting to note the the Lab-80 was the first TT (at least from
> Garrard) that used the slick-plastic Delrin in a trip-mechanism. It was
used
> because it is light-weight and a low-friction material that would allow
the
> trip action to work with minimal drag on the unit.
>
> It was to your good fortune that you had access to the punch set. Cutting
> the washers out using the X-acto knife was not fun.
>
> Let me know from time to time how the fix is working -- it should perform
> well for many years ...
>
> Regards,
>
> DanR.
>
>