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Anyone try damping the CH-290 horns yet? nt
Re: Anyone try damping the CH-290 horns yet? nt
Bill, I tried this and the results seemed positive, so I went the next step and put rope caulk on the Stage 4PI Omega woofer's basket,braces-wherever there was metal that might ring. I listened for over an hour last night to my usual test tracks. While it is hardly scientific, to my ears the sound was more natural and easy to listen to, as if some irritating element had been removed. I have long thought about doing this and had some rope caulk on hand which I used on small full range drivers but your post was the motivating factor to finally try it on the Pi speakers. Thanks. Larry
Not used the method you suggest (don't even know what rope caulk is TBH) but it was suggested that I box the flare and use expanding foam filler to 'fill' the cavity. Not tried this either, though. Paul.
Someone else tried it and let me know that it made no difference. I've been thinking about that and wonder if my more reflective room let's me hear more, including some nasties yet to be tamed. I also have what I consider some effective tweaks beyond what I belive the other guy does: Mills resistors, Obbligato caps and serious vibration isolation for the crossover board.
I like to use a gasket underneath the crossover PCB, then bolt it down tight to the cabinet. I suppose a person could isolate the PCB, perhaps suspending it on string or encasing it in a viscous material. But fastening the crossover board with a gasket is simple and prevents the board from vibrating against anything that would cause it to buzz. Gaskets <br(.*)
I've made xovers point2point on 1/4" ply, then screwed it tight into the 'floor' of the speaker using thick neoprene washers under the xover.
I really believe in this stuff, also their SD-40 and Isoloss grommets and stand-offs. C-1002
I mount the crossover to the least resonant platform I can reasonably make and then velcro it to the speaker cabinet rather than attach it with glue or screws that can readily transfer vibrations from the cabinet to the crossover, and then cover it with insulation. More listening has confirmed to my satisfaction that the rope caulk tweak works. Incidentily, my Stage 4 cabinets are filled with polyfil except for the vents. For my speakers this gives a smoother, clearer midrange at the expense of some low bass response. I consider it a good trade off. I think it works much better that just lining opposite sides of the cabinet with 4 inches or so of fiberglass. It cuts down on the back wave of the 15 inch woofer reflecting back through it. I strongly suspect that the not having this reflected back wave is one of the reasons why so many like the sound of open baffled speakers. Anyway, my Stage 4s are sounding very nice right now and I am quite pleased with them, although I would love to have the JBL/B&C combo.