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Re: What are your top eco-friendly synthesisers for quality music production?
Bercle wrote on Wed, 21 January 2026 23:22 I understand and appreciate you for thinking about the planet when it comes to using some of the devices. The one that I've been making use of in sound production when I need to, no thanks to my work schedule, is the Teenage Engineering OP-Z. It was made with recycled plastic, has a good low-power draw, and is loaded with insane sequencing for amazing productions without crushing energy. Not to say that the Roland AIRA or Korg Volca are not great alternatives, but I think OP-Z feels more versatile for layering tracks sustainably. At the moment, I am rocking a combo of the OP-Z and a solar-supported Novation Circuit Rhythm...gives me those eco-friendly vibes. So, tell me your genre? It could help me give you a better suggestion for your next upgrade. My main genres right now are rock and country with a bit of Pop and I've been making use of the Roland AIRA Compact Series in producing most of the songs that I've done. I know that there would be better options out there that will smoothly fit I to my genre of music with the mindset that they are also eco-friendly ones. So, which one do you think that I should be aiming to get when I do the next upgrade of synthesisers which I use for making music? On the side, I also think your OP-Z setup with the solar-powered circuit rhythm is awesome. Certainly gives that special vibe when making music.
The thing is that I don't really like watching movies from the 80s or 90s again. They don't have those elements that the movies of today present. I mean movies nowadays have better visuals, and I prefer the storytelling to that of older movies. For example, I had a splendid time watching Everything Everywhere at Once, which was released in 2022. I like the amazing creativity of the movie. I rank it as good as Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse. I can't place any older movies ahead of these new movies that I believe are of better quality.
Re: Do you think Home Theatre Calibration services are worth the cost?
I think it's worth it if they use accurate measurement equipment to dial-in the best seat-to-seat uniformity of the sound field and set levels of each channel. But if they aren't driven by measurements, I wouldn't want their service. Setting up by ear is trivial.
noodle wrote on Fri, 03 November 2023 14:52 When I've dog-sat and cat-sat, I didn't like leaving them with the house and neighborhood quiet. I would leave on the TV or one of the YouTube channels for pets. This is a hack that many homes should use for two reasons. The first is for safety reasons as leaving the TV on would make any intruder believe that someone is actually home. The second one is that having the dog or cat watch the TV gives them an escape from boredom with something they can look at when you are away from home.
Do you think Home Theatre Calibration services are worth the cost?
Well, for those who ain't familiar with this topic, the Home theater Calibration is simply a professional service where experts tweak your audio and video setup to perfection for a particular room. I am talking about making adjustments for speaker levels, screen settings using cool tools like meters to eliminate echoes, make colour sharps and balance sound. The cost of hiring for this service can be around $1000 depending on how complex your setup is. Do you think it is worth spending that much to get the balance you need for your sound and visual setup or is it a pass for you? Have you hired any experts for this or did you make use of DIY to achieve a good result? Let me know what you think.
My folks made me take piano lessons from elementary school all through high school. I hated it at the time, and wanted to play drums. I was kind of natural on the drums. But in high school, that all kind of worked for me 'cause I joined a rock band. I proposed that we name ourselves "Orpheus," and made a logo inspired by Roger Dean artwork, much like the Yes logo. We all liked that name, so it stuck. Anyway, back to the topic. I played a Moog Liberation, which I thought was super cool. It was priced right for me and it let me be out in front, which I kind of dug. It replaced an electric piano that I originally played, which just didn't do it for me. I always drooled over the Moog One synthesizer tough. That's still my favorite of the original analog VCO/VCF/Envelope synths.
Oh, man, those look fantastic!!!
Re: Do you consider AXPONA a must show to attend?
My favorite show is the Lone Star Audiofest!
You're quite safe! I've always been a little bit less cautious about things like that, although I do think eye safety is important. Especially when drilling and other things that might throw off debris. I'm just a typical dude that is not as diligent with safety precautions as I maybe should be. One thing I've always done, though, is to protect my circuits, especially those with CMOS components. Those things poof so easily. Cold, dry winters are even more likely to kill 'em. So I always make sure I'm grounded when handling stuff with CMOS parts, either with a grounding wrist-strap or even old-school, just grabbing a ground chassis or whatever and holding for a few seconds before touching and during handling the chip or the board.
Prince wrote on Thu, 15 January 2026 09:01 Hey, man, you just reminded me of good old memories. I am above 60 right now, and that means my state of health is not as it used to be, but I still giggle when I remember AXPONA in the early 2000s. Back in those years, it was not huge, but the sound... oh my gosh, the sound! I can still remember relaxing in a dim little suite listening to Wilson Audio Alexandria Vinyl driven by big tube amps, playing Miles Davis' type of blues. The trumpet floated right in front of me as if Miles had just stepped out of the shadows. I think I was around 43 then, not financially buoyant, but I had to save for months just to attend. That special feeling never left me. You experienced the same, didn't you? The moment when the songs stop being "played" and start breathing. It's quite unfortunate that I've not been there for over a decade now - my wife's health challenge, then mine - but reading your posts brought those amazing memories back. You should go there next year, son. Immerse yourself in every bit of the experience. Those memories never fade quickly. It's a shame that ill health can deny us experiencing some of the beautiful moments that life has to give. Trust you and your lovely wife are getting better because I would wish that you get that opportunity to show up for this year's or next year's event. That being said, I have always set aside some funds that will take me to AXPONA this year. Ain't sure that I am going to miss it for any reason whatsoever right now.
I understand and appreciate you for thinking about the planet when it comes to using some of the devices. The one that I've been making use of in sound production when I need to, no thanks to my work schedule, is the Teenage Engineering OP-Z. It was made with recycled plastic, has a good low-power draw, and is loaded with insane sequencing for amazing productions without crushing energy. Not to say that the Roland AIRA or Korg Volca are not great alternatives, but I think OP-Z feels more versatile for layering tracks sustainably. At the moment, I am rocking a combo of the OP-Z and a solar-supported Novation Circuit Rhythm...gives me those eco-friendly vibes. So, tell me your genre? It could help me give you a better suggestion for your next upgrade.
I got tired of looking at the bare, pale walnut veneer and started researching finishing options. A couple of seasoned woodworkers in my circle suggested Rubio Monocoat, which in theory takes only one application and is, as one of them put it, "idiot-proof" (we'll see about that!). I decided to go with the "pure" color which is untinted and should yield a natural oiled finish. This stuff is surprisingly expensive. I admit I was somewhat apprehensive about the pronounced striping in the grain, but it's growing on me. If I did this build over again I would still try and find some "cleaner" veneer, although I like how it speaks to the unpredictability of natural wood. You can also see I added a 15" square piece of R13 insulation between the woofer and the lower brace. It seems to help to tighten the upper-midbass region but I don't have data to back it up. I think I might've used R11 in the rest of the cabinet which could contribute to the speakers' slightly elevated midbass. I still ought to take some measurements one of these days. Some photos of the speakers complete... In the sunlight I can see a few thin spots in the finish as well as some finger marks, so some touchup may be needed, or it might possibly benefit from a second coat. ...And the listening space. We usually have the speakers pointed straight out towards the kitchen as that's where we spend a lot of time, and frankly I think it looks better...but I toe them inward for "dedicated" listening sessions. At some point I'll get a couple of "π" badges made for the grilles but in the meantime I'm happy to sit back and enjoy them. I'm having trouble finding the right words to articulate how good the Pi's sound on my MC-30's. I'm over the moon.
gofar99 wrote on Wed, 02 August 2017 16:41 Hi, I guess you need to decide on what sort of thing you want to create... speakers, amps, .... whatever. You are right because deciding on what they wish to make is the first step towards deciding the direction that they wish to take. It is after that that they can now decide on learning more about the particular device that they want to assemble. If it is one that requires having a good foundation in physics, then the poster should know if it is one he can do.
I would say as one who's quite keen on DIY certain electronics that I used at home and the ones used by close relatives, I've got a lot to say about safety measures. There are certain things that I do before I even begin to work. Firstly, I ensure that I do all work in a ventilated environment because of issues with fumes. I also don't miss out on wearing safety glasses that help to protect my eyes. I would always recommend having the first extinguisher around just for safety. During working time, I don't plug anything into the electricity when I am working and if I need to disassemble any parts, disconnecting the batteries /caps and discharging them is a must. Doing some of these little things is mainly for safety reasons while I am working or before I even resume working.
What's your say about Quilter amps?
So, I've been geeking out over Quilter amps lately. Made from Silicon Valley's tech wizardry, these machines nail that tube-like warmth without the hassle, yet are lightweight. My cousin decided to purchase the Quilter Aviator Cub last year, and oh boy, it has transformed his setup. Last December, I was at his place and I can say that he surely did make a good decision getting that beast. Lightweight and not heavy like some tubes. Do you make use of any of their product? Which one is your favourite model and how does it measure against your old tube faves?
What are your top eco-friendly synthesisers for quality music production?
When it comes to eco-friendly synthesisers, which one do you think is better for great music production? At the moment, I am making use of the Roland AIRA Compact series simply because they are compact, low-power, and made with more recycled materials than older Roland gear. I also like the Korg Volca updated models. They are super good on batteries and deliver fat analogue-ish tones. So, which eco-considerate syths are you guys using at the moment? I need to know that as it will help me in making decisions for my next upgrade.
Re: Thinking about the Vitus SS-103, is it worth the price?
Wayne Parham wrote on Sun, 04 January 2026 10:21 It's a dual-mode amplifier that can run in either class A or class A/B mode. But its maximum output is modest in either mode - 50 watts in class A and 150 in class B. That's right. There are even some who said that it performs far better than this. That is one of the reasons I am strongly considering paying the full price. Do you think it is worth it?
Hey, mate I get this feeling, I truly do. I've been chasing great sound since the '80s. Unfortunately, I've never made it to AXPONA, but reading your content got me hooked - sounds incredible! I had a similar experience when I went to High END Munich in 2019. It was a pretty good experience. Your Magico room story and Patricia Barber live performance make me regret skipping the show last year. You've got me imagining a lot right now! This year, I am clearing the calendar, no excuses. I really need to have that experience before I become too old to climb those 12 staircases. About the upgrade that you talked about, which one are you going for first? The headphones or the DAC? Hoping to hear from you about it!
Well, I get it that the Yamaha NS-2000 must've sounded cool and vintage, but I will pick any of the quality modern speakers all day. I've been in a place where I heard these old speakers being used and they just felt slow and muddy to me when compared to the nice ones we get nowadays that offer clarity when being used. I make use of the KEF Blade Two Meta that I got for $24,000/pair two years ago. Trust me, the clarity and punch are just on a different level. I get the nostalgia vibe, but I'd rather spend some cash on new speakers that slaps harder. Got no regrets with the decision.
Tadtone wrote on Tue, 20 December 2016 02:02 When it comes to hardware, I think it is probably disposable income. Young people tend to have fewer bills and obligations so more spending money. It is much easier to persuade a younger person to buy their first stereo, or a cheap portable disposable one to use at university, than to persuade an older person to replace a wired-in surround-sound system they've been happy with for years. I need to be convinced that what I am paying for is going to give me the feeling of the 80s before I pay for it. I've been around for a while now and have spent tons of funds buying expensive sound devices and what pushes me to spend when I do is quality of the device and nothing more.
Hey, man, you just reminded me of good old memories. I am above 60 right now, and that means my state of health is not as it used to be, but I still giggle when I remember AXPONA in the early 2000s. Back in those years, it was not huge, but the sound... oh my gosh, the sound! I can still remember relaxing in a dim little suite listening to Wilson Audio Alexandria Vinyl driven by big tube amps, playing Miles Davis' type of blues. The trumpet floated right in front of me as if Miles had just stepped out of the shadows. I think I was around 43 then, not financially buoyant, but I had to save for months just to attend. That special feeling never left me. You experienced the same, didn't you? The moment when the songs stop being "played" and start breathing. It's quite unfortunate that I've not been there for over a decade now - my wife's health challenge, then mine - but reading your posts brought those amazing memories back. You should go there next year, son. Immerse yourself in every bit of the experience. Those memories never fade quickly.
Kurt wrote on Sun, 11 January 2026 03:03 I am someone who's invested a lot in keeping tube amps alive and it saddens me when I see some myths about thermionic emission around some communities. Which ones have you seen recently? Personally, I have one that I've seen and I would like to clear the air about them. I've seen this myth that tube amps are inferior to solid-state. I believe this is absolute nonsense. I mean we've got recent tubes from brands such as Tung-Sol performing absolutely better than vintage Nos, for example. I've got the boutique 50W head doing well since 2019 when I got it. I've only done some routine bias checks and occasional tube replacement. I believe that reliability comes from great power supply design and not basically from pushing tubes beyond specs. Which other ones do you have in mind that you think are wrong? Hi Kurt, I have also heard that myth about SS being better. Nothing could be further from the truth. I have a couple of posts in this string, below, mentioning just a few differences, and why SS will never be perfect to the source but Tube amplifier can be extremely close. One caveat to mention is that as one gets closer to perfect accuracy to the source, one must be more careful to the "little" things. As one example, I have been R&D analog since 1980, delving into audio perception and component design, and use multiple 6N pure copper speaker wires in parallel, for both minimal inductance at high frequencies, and total gauge for optimal woofer damping (at least the best one can obtain). Besides those two, one must consider a flat response over the entire audio band since the speaker impedance changes (usually cone types) from minimal to maximum. I have found that there is an optimal total gauge that will give flattest frequency response, and most natural sound. https://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=21561&start=0& Thanks for starting this string Kurt. Cheers pos
Music for babies still in the womb is like a Ray of sunshine for their little souls. I've heard some reports that babies in the womb can respond to music from week 16 and there is nothing wrong with playing songs from that stage. The best pick here for babies still in the womb is lullabies. I am talking about traditional nursery rhymes like the "twinkle, twinkle, little star" kinda songs. Those are calm, but pretty good for babies still in the womb. You can always search for similar songs such as the one that I mentioned and play them for the kids whenever you feel like. Another interesting option is singing for your baby! I've seen some pregnant women do it when I went to the hospital for my quarterly checkups and it is always a pleasure to watch that happen.
What I would say is that the Vitus SS-103 MkII is a good value for the $48k investment for passionate audiophiles like you. Its top-class A operation delivers a dead-black noise floor, effortless dynamics, silky highs, and heavy, controlled bass that makes music feel vividly alive just like you feel with your Magnepan 20.7s. A lot of people appreciate Vitus' signature series amps for their grainless fluidity, and ability to unite absolute sound and musicality, which is far better than other brands. So, I think you are getting a long-term piece that brings a life-like reproduction and I would suggest you make the purchase if the demo gave you such a beautiful experience.
I am someone who's invested a lot in keeping tube amps alive and it saddens me when I see some myths about thermionic emission around some communities. Which ones have you seen recently? Personally, I have one that I've seen and I would like to clear the air about them. I've seen this myth that tube amps are inferior to solid-state. I believe this is absolute nonsense. I mean we've got recent tubes from brands such as Tung-Sol performing absolutely better than vintage Nos, for example. I've got the boutique 50W head doing well since 2019 when I got it. I've only done some routine bias checks and occasional tube replacement. I believe that reliability comes from great power supply design and not basically from pushing tubes beyond specs. Which other ones do you have in mind that you think are wrong?
It's a dual-mode amplifier that can run in either class A or class A/B mode. But its maximum output is modest in either mode - 50 watts in class A and 150 in class B.
Thinking about the Vitus SS-103, is it worth the price?
Hi, guys I just finished a home demo of the Vitus Audio SS-103 MkII stereo power amp during the holiday. The price that the seller quoted for this 85kg heavy-duty is $49,000 slightly negotiable...maybe we can settle around $48,000. I had to pair it with my Magnepan 20.7 speakers, SL-103 pre and the vinyl setup. Played it in full class A- dead-black noise floor, heavy bass, smooth dynamics, silky highs. Many tracks felt alive like I've got the band right there in my room! I truly enjoyed the moments, but the cost for it got me second-guessing. Don't get me wrong, I am ready to spend for the best out there, but is this truly worth it? Should I make the final payment? Do we have owners or anyone who's heard about it?
Do you consider AXPONA a must show to attend?
Hi, all I am Bercle, 27, a video editor staying in a small apartment in downtown Chicago. Most days, I am a graphics designer completing some orders on freelancing sites, but I've always had a real passion for music and movies. While I was growing up, I was enthusiastic about watching Oppenheimer on TV with a simple soundbar and sometimes enjoyed a good time streaming hip-hop and classic film soundtracks through my AirPods. The experience was sweet, but I always felt like something was missing. The sound was okay, but it also felt like it was light and lifeless. Sometime in April this year, a fellow freelancer mentioned AXPONA, a huge audio show taking place right in Schaumburg, just a few minutes' drive away. I assumed it was an event for the rich old dudes seeking perfect sound, and not for a broke guy like me who is just passionate about music yet got no deep pockets to back it up 🤣 Luckily for me, the tickets were affordable so I bought one. The event recorded thr highest turnout this year with over 10,000 people showing up at the Renaissance Schaumburg Convention Center. It was on a Friday, I think 11 April. There were 213 listening rooms across 12 floors plus a big Expo Hall with lots of turntables, the new car audio showcase and vinyl. I discovered that it was not just the old audiophiles who came around. There were young couples, and young guys like me having the fun of their lives. When I got to the Magico room on the top floor, I saw these huge M9 speakers jamming heavily with classic songs. The feeling that I had at the AXPONA this year was like that of when one is inside a movie and not just watching it. A feeling that is beyond streaming music at home. The musical experience was pure magic. I had the opportunity to check lots of headphones at the event playing some of my favourite tracks from Jay-Z, Kendrick Lamar and many more. Patricia Barber performed on Saturday night. Soothing voice that hits deep into my soul. The decision to attend AXPONA was awesome. At the end of the show, I went home making it a duty to change my headphones, DAC and even vinyl to better ones. My music or movie nights have got better. This makes me think that AXPONA is a must-attend show to attend for music or movie lovers. You will surely see playing music beyond the streaming world. Something much deeper. Have you had the experience of attending AXPONA? Or do you plan to do so next year? What's your best experience of attending from attending AXPONA?
Helen wrote on Sun, 26 October 2025 03:27 I do watch older movies but not all the time. Whenever I'm watching older movies, I'm doing it to pass time and also learn what they did that the new era don't implement in this era. I don't have any specific movie name that I've watched multiple times and remembering movies name is so hard on me. It is great to watch older movies just for the memories that it bring. Snake in the Monkey's Shadow is one of the older movies that I've seen recently and it was really good watching such a movie.
I do watch older movies but not all the time. Whenever I'm watching older movies, I'm doing it to pass time and also learn what they did that the new era don't implement in this era. I don't have any specific movie name that I've watched multiple times and remembering movies name is so hard on me.
I am specifically talking about movies that were made in the 80s and 90s. There are a lot of these movies that were quite interesting and can still be relevant today. Do you still watch any of those older movies? Which one is your preferred movie that you can watch multiple times?
Even though I've never tried to work on electricity by myself but I've learnt safety measures to take when working on electricity, Firstly, I will turn off the power at the breaker, wear rubber and gloves, avoid coming in contact with higher voltages before starting any work.
Beautiful job on your FourPi build! Dave.
ShakiroKuait wrote on Fri, 11 November 2022 23:31 my two true loves, animals and music The question then is whether your cat is pretty cool with you when you play music on high sound or does she hide or act awkward when the music comes on?
Man, those speakers are outstanding! Just fantastic!
Loss for words. Crazy-nice work. Thanks for sharing pics. PS (Doesn't look like a bad view, either)
Eventually the speakers will be finished with a couple coats of conversion varnish but that will have to wait for now. In the meantime I press-fit neodymium magnets into six holes placed around each baffle that the grill frames will attach to and reinstalled the drivers. This is around the time I noticed that some of the adhesive bonding the crossover components to the PCBs had started to break away, likely due to exposure to high concentrations of airborne solvents from the contact cement. I should've removed the boards beforehand (lesson learned). Next on the agenda is the grill frames and cloths which I cut out on the CNC from 1/2" birch plywood and painted with the black lacquer. Originally the grill frames had 1/4" steel dowels that mated with the magnets on the baffles, but I replaced them with more neodymium magnets as the pull strength proved to be too weak. The funny thing is stretching the grill cloth was one of the most difficult and frustrating parts of the whole project. I had trouble particularly with figuring out how to neatly gather and secure the fabric at the corners...I did my best. That's all for now! Still to come: Get "π" badges made Final finish
It has been a challenging two months since my last update, but through all of it I've managed to make significant progress on the project. During that time I was too busy to post so I'll pick up right where I left off: I should preface by sharing the unfortunate fact that in my entire house, only one area is somewhat suitable for a 2-channel listening arrangement, which is currently occupied by my McIntosh/Altec A7 system. It was never a consideration when my family bought the property and I had little influence on the matter...my dad was hell-bent on acquiring a place with south-facing slopes on which "he" could plant vineyards. Early on he was still working full-time so it was up to my mom and me to plant nearly 5000 vines, as we didn't have enough extra money to hire help. That's a whole different story... Anyway, I digress. I remembered about some speaker stands I built years ago and dug them out of storage. They don't tilt, but they elevate the cabinets a foot off the floor...plus they look the part. After the kids went home I moved the speakers and gear temporarily in front of the angled living room couch which follows the rear wall with a 135-degree corner. The setup is still far from ideal but it allowed for a comfortable place to sit and listen with some distance between the Pi's without a boundary directly behind them. It looks a little unusual with the extreme toe-in but the Pi's sound absolutely stellar while delivering a coherent soundstage across a wide listening area, just as advertised. For practical reasons this arrangement was short-lived and everything was returned to the other wall until I was ready to haul the speakers back down to the wood shop for finishing. I began finishing by applying a few coats of satin black lacquer-based enamel paint to the front baffles and around the recesses for the terminal plates using Mohawk M104-S224. There are some light chisel marks that show through the paint along the edges where I removed excess glue but they're not obvious. In hindsight I should have spent more time sanding and prepping the baffles but any defects are going to be hidden behind grill cloth most of the time. Iron-on edgebanding was added next and it was mostly straightforward, although applying the strips to the bottom edge with the grill access relief required some ingenuity and a couple of attempts. I ended up using my hot air station (for SMD soldering) to melt the glue and a veneer scraper to press it on. When I examined it again I wasn't especially happy with the grain pattern on the sheet of veneer I originally bought, so I went back to Tree Products and bought a couple more rolls (one extra to refinish a pair of Cornwalls...someday. You can see them in the photo below.). The selection was significantly better this time around and I found a sheet with some interesting grain patterns. The sections were cut out with a 1/2" oversize. Since the 4x8 sheet was divided into 16" strips I had to splice a couple segments together to have sufficient width for the backs. Speaking truthfully, I wasn't looking forward to the veneering part since recovering from a mistake here would be exponentially more difficult than fixing an error during any other step of the process. After digesting a few hours of youtube videos on the subject I gained enough confidence to dive in, starting with the backs. I proceeded to do the sides, then the tops and bottoms. To my amazement, the cabinets turned out looking pretty good!
Oooh, very nice! Looks great! On the woofer being 1/8" shy of flush - That's a total "don't worry about it" thing. These speakers are purpose-designed to have a forward lobe that's pretty tall. The drivers are in-phase between the vertical nulls, where they become out-of-phase. And those vertical nulls occur above and below the speaker +/-20°. So fore/aft offsets of either woofer or tweeter simply shift the forward axis vertically. And when it's a small offset like that, we're talking about a very small angular difference. You could calculate the shift made by moving the woofer forward 1/8" if you wanted, but I'm going to give a seat-of-the-pants guess of 0.25° to 0.5°, something like that. Tiny. With a 40° vertical pattern, I don't mind vertical shifts of even a few degrees. I recommend stands with 3° to 5° tilt-back, to help cradle the speaker against the backrest, which is actually more of a lip than a rest. But my point is those stands shift the verticals to from about +22° to -18° to about +25° to -15°, all of which is great too. While you're measuring stuff, find those vertical nulls. Put the microphone straight in front of the speakers, and then move the mic above and below the speakers 'til you find a sharp notch in the crossover region. Those are the vertical nulls. To me, the biggest thing that makes imaging great is the horizontal toe-in. Cross the forward axes of the speakers just ahead of the listening area. When you do that, the "sweet spot" becomes "anywhere between the two speakers." Imaging is great throughout a fairly wide area.
Gotcha. For now I mounted them with some #12 screws using a couple of washers to space them off the surface. I was eager to make the speakers ready for listening using materials that I had on hand. It happened that I had exactly enough leftover R-13 to line the three sides of the enclosures, and I used R11 on the brace between the woofer and horn. I didn't have any white glue so I tacked the sheets in with staples. The crossovers went in next. The holes were marked and pre-drilled after the cabinet was put together, which was only possible using a 90 deg drill because of limited clearance with the brace at the woofer midpoint. In hindsight it would have been better to drill the panel before assembly. Getting the nylon spacers to line up was a little fiddly... Drivers installed...I've omitted the gaskets for now. I'm working off the assumption that the DNA-360 are the same polarity as the DE-250, but I'll know for sure once I measure @ crossover point. The 2226 rests a little more proud above the motorboard than I would like, but it's too late to change at this point. The recess depth I went with is 1/2" however another 1/8 would've been about right. Not that 1/8 in. would make a difference, but I'm curious if the disparity in time alignment has a noticeable impact on imaging. The assembled speakers are heavy and I had some help moving them from the shop into the house where they displaced my Forte IIs. I only had about five minutes to listen to them as we are hosting my brother's family with three small kids for a couple of weeks and they had already planned to watch a movie in the same room. I'll report back once I get another chance.
No, I mount them on a gasket. Gaskets
Wayne, Do you recommend using standoffs when mounting the Zobel resistor to the enclosure?
Wayne Parham wrote on Thu, 03 July 2025 17:11 Unity_Coupled wrote on Thu, 03 July 2025 16:54 I realized too late that the CNC table wasn't as flat as I thought it was, which caused the depths of the dados to vary by up to +/- 0.1". It took a fair bit of touchup on the router table to get everything to fit correctly. That's a pretty big variance, nearly 1/8". But you sure can't tell - your speakers look great! Thanks, Wayne- Roughly half of the panels required rework as stated, and if you examine the enclosures closely it's evident that things are still slightly askew...but it's nothing that can't be mitigated with a dose of flush trimming and some sanding. At least the joints mate properly and the boxes are air-tight where they need to be. Overall I'm very pleased with how everything is taking shape. Funny thing... I was contemplating running a surfacing pass on the mill before starting but ultimately chose to just "send it". My impatience got the better of me! I suspect it will strike again as I'm anxious to load in the drivers and crossovers for a listen. I think the next step is to prime and paint the baffles satin black before applying the veneer to the rest of the cabinets, but I'm not quite sure how to go about it. Maybe black lacquer with a paint sprayer? I'll have to consult by brother who has more experience with this kind of stuff.
Unity_Coupled wrote on Thu, 03 July 2025 16:54 I realized too late that the CNC table wasn't as flat as I thought it was, which caused the depths of the dados to vary by up to +/- 0.1". It took a fair bit of touchup on the router table to get everything to fit correctly. That's a pretty big variance, nearly 1/8". But you sure can't tell - your speakers look great!
Enclosures getting glued up... I realized too late that the CNC table wasn't as flat as I thought it was, which caused the depths of the dados to vary by up to +/- 0.1". It took a fair bit of touchup on the router table to get everything to fit correctly. Oh yeah, I was a dingbat and installed the back panel inside-out on one cabinet and didn't notice until today. D'oh! I'll have to route the recess for the terminal plate by hand...
Sweet! That looks incredible!
Happy Tau Day! After taking a break from this project for nearly two years (life, eh?) I decided it's time to get back into it. The next order of business is to build up the boxes. The design I settled on reflects that of the original, but with a front lip to accommodate a removable grill cloth, and some additional bracing. Since I would be using my CNC I implemented several slots and reliefs to aide in panel alignment during glue-up.
Yes, I truly do. In my family, we were so quick to pick up new tech. It was a sign of being modern and successful. Some of it was innovative, but for the most part, each iteration was more cheaply made. I wish I'd held onto the older stuff.
Hi, I have a pair of Altec Lansing "Magnificents" (all 7cubic feet each) that I use regularly. An entirely different sound than the Martin Logan ESLs. Both are great in their own ways.
I remember a record store that used those Yamaha NS 2000's they'd demo records on. Really nice sounding speakers I recall. Highly sought after today.
Lots of folks I know love their vintage speakers. Some have really stood the test of time as classic designs. I'm most familiar with high-efficiency offerings from Klipsch, JBL and Altec. But there are classic designs of every other type that are also worthy of mention.
People invent new speakers every day, but have you ever wished you kept your older speakers? I visited a cousin recently and had fun with his twenty-year-old Yamaha NS-2000! I know it depends on setups, but that's still amazing. I was envious (but also happy for him).
Thank you, much appreciated
The compression driver mounts onto the horn with a couple of 1/4-20 bolts that are spaced 3" apart. Each mounting bolt is 1-1/2" from the center. Some call this the "standard two-hole mounting pattern." In the case of the B&C DE-250, you could use 1/4-20 bolts but they include a couple of studs and nuts with that compression driver so I personally always use 'em.
Thank you for this; these little details can be so important. I have not built/ put together a speaker before, but I'm seriously thinking about the 4Pi with the JBL2226H MW & B&C DE250 CD. Just one question please - how is the compression driver attached to the waveguide? H290C
When I've dog-sat and cat-sat, I didn't like leaving them with the house and neighborhood quiet. I would leave on the TV or one of the YouTube channels for pets.
Unity_Coupled wrote on Mon, 16 October 2023 13:15 Potentially there's another issue, this one not so easy (or cheap) to resolve. I suspected from the get-go that at least one of my drivers was reconed, due to the over-application of glue around the dust cap on one of the cones, and the absence of a part number stamped on the backsides. ... Compared to the JBL data, the impedance is not as smooth above 500hz, but it doesn't seem particularly bad either. As you've said in another post, the impedance notch at around 1k is a good indicator that the cone is aftermarket. ... I'm going to wait until I can conduct final FR measurements and listening tests before making any decisions. I paid about $300 for both drivers, and if they're good enough I'm inclined to keep using them. I would do the same thing. Measure the response to know for sure. Even if it's not, a recone isn't too expensive and will make the driver 100% good as new. That's one of the really great things about the 2226H driver.
Potentially there's another issue, this one not so easy (or cheap) to resolve. I suspected from the get-go that at least one of my drivers was reconed, due to the over-application of glue around the dust cap on one of the cones, and the absence of a part number stamped on the backsides. Connecting a battery with the positive end to the red terminal draws the cone inward, so the polarity is correct. I built a jig for plotting impedance with REW and this is what I measured (average of four sweeps for ea. driver): Compared to the JBL data, the impedance is not as smooth above 500hz, but it doesn't seem particularly bad either. As you've said in another post, the impedance notch at around 1k is a good indicator that the cone is aftermarket. I have a single 2226H with an original cone and may decide to sell the 2226HPL's to purchase a second original H, but truthfully I prefer the HPL for the black outer ring. In any case, I'm going to wait until I can conduct final FR measurements and listening tests before making any decisions. I paid about $300 for both drivers, and if they're good enough I'm inclined to keep using them.
What a bummer! Then again, as problems go, that's a good one - super-easy to solve!
I may have goofed on the 1/4-20 screws and bought ones that are too long, since they are only partly threaded. It looks like the 2" ones are going to bottom out before applying sufficient clamping force to the frame of the woofer, since it will be mounted flush with the baffle. I've re-ordered the screws, this time in 1.5" length. (part no. 91251A546) Just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone was going to copy my McMaster order.
Super groovy cool!
Thanks. I did look over the Care and Feeding document. The touch-up is on my to-do list, but I'll probably wait until I'm closer to final assembly.
Gorgeous! Those are stunning! Hopefully I sent the "Care and feeding of your H290C Waveguide" document with the waveguide/horns. It mentions an option of painting with enamel to get a perfect finish. With the rest of the attention to detail in your speakers, you'll definitely want to take that step. Lightly sand the face using 600 grit on a sanding block. Not much - just enough to remove the mold parting line. Don't sand any part of the flare, just sand the face. Then paint with spray enamel. You can take the waveguides to an auto paint shop if you want, but believe it or not, you can do a great job with a "rattle can" spray bottle.
Progress on the build has been pretty slow lately as I've had to prioritize farm and vineyard work, as well as audio repairs for customers. Just a few small updates for now... The terminal plates are back after getting laser engraved. I think they turned out nicely. I went with a slightly different design than what I posted above. If anyone wants to copy this, feel free to PM me for a vector file. Yesterday I picked up a couple sheets of MDF along with Walnut veneer. I unrolled the veneer sheet and sandwiched it between the fiber boards so it would start to flatten out. I purchased all the fasteners for the drivers from McMaster. For anyone interested, this is what I ordered: Woofer 91251A550 Black-Oxide Socket Head Screw, 1/4"-20 x 2" 90975A307 Steel Tee Nut 1/4"-20 Waveguide 91255A278 Black-Oxide Button Head Hex Screw, 10-32 x 2" 90975A306 Steel Tee Nut 10-32 Crossover boards 94639A342 Nylon Spacer, 5/16" OD, 1/4" Long, for Number 8 Screw Size That's all for now!
I guess I'm more of a PCB traditionalist. It looks a little cleaner with the components mounted on the blank side too...not that it matters, it just satisfies my pseudo-OCD or whatever you call it. I plan to mount mine with 1/4" nylon standoffs. I'm getting some estimates for having the terminal plates laser engraved...because, why not? I'm pulling out ALL the stops with this build. This is roughly how I want them to look (terminal plates are Dayton SBPP-BK):
I always mount the crossover board on the bottom of the cabinet too. Certainly always on the three Pi and four Pi models. I make the boards kinda weird, in that I mount the components on the solder side, which then leaves the other side flat. Then I mount the board on a gasket, directly on the cabinet panel rather than using stand-offs.
It's taking a long time indeed. My goal was to reach the point where I could handle them (carefully) and finish the soldering, but there's still some white showing through the globs. I would leave them in the dryer for a whole week if I could, but we have several buckets of fruit from our garden that we need to preserve first. My one comment on the crossover PCBs is I wish the traces were arranged such that zip ties could be installed around the coils for extra security. I'm thinking about mounting the boards on the bottom of the cabs to minimize the stress of gravity.
That silicon takes forever to cure, doesn't it?!! Your dehydrator idea is hysterical, but clever too! I always let the silicon cure for at least a couple weeks before shipping. But really, I have found it takes months to fully cure. After a few hours, the skin begins to form and within a day or so, it has hardened to the touch but the skin is actually very thin. After a few weeks, the skin has thickened enough to be strong enough for shipping, but even then, if the boards receive a really big impact, the adhesive can fail. When that happens, you can see that the inside has still not cured. I have found it doesn't fully cure - all the way through - for several months.
Thanks, Rusty. I've never veneered anything in my life, but I'm fortunate to have a brother who is a cabinetmaker and could guide me through it. I got tired of waiting for the silicone to cure, so I tossed the crossover boards in my food dehydrator and left them for 24 hours at around 115F. This proved to be rather effective, and after letting the assemblies return to room temperature I finished soldering them up. Here are the crossovers undergoing burn-in. I shunted across the caps in the zobel circuit so the 100W resistor would act as a dummy load, and added a 8R resistor to the tweeter output.
I like your light white grill cloth contrasting with the dark walnut like finish. That is a classic style that never goes out of it. Rich walnut veneer done well is beautiful I think. You can DO it!
Thanks, Wayne. AES has been my go-to supplier for parts whenever I work on tube gear, although Tube Depot has had better prices on F&T caps lately. I just placed an order for a Sansui SM-80 I'm working on...the chassis is chock-full with old PIO caps! Not the good (sealed) kind that last, unfortunately, as most are leaking out. I looked through their selection of speaker fabric but nothing resonated with me.
That looks really sweet! I love it! Sometimes, when repairing an old tube radio, the grille cloth will be discolored or ripped and needs replacement. When I encounter one of those, I usually get a replacement cloth at Antique Electronic Supply. Old radios usually have a patterned cloth, but sometimes have a solid color like what you're looking for. So AES might be a good source for you too.
It might be a little early in the project, but I've been mulling over finishing options while I wait for the silicone to cure on the crossovers. I always liked the mid-century modern aesthetic of vintage Dynaco and A.R. speakers with light-colored grilles, and I'd like to try and emulate that in the Pis. The cabinets will be constructed with MDF...I'm thinking I'll veneer them in quarter-sawn American Walnut, which will then be oiled and rubbed into a satin finish. Baffles will be doubled and painted black. Grille cloth will be stretched over frames that will attach to the fronts of the cabinets with velcro. I've found a couple fabrics that I think would look the part. Here's one: https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/speaker-cloth-foam/grille-cloth/designer-architect-cloth/gc-144-off-white-speaker-fabric/ Here's another ("swan" color): https://shop.guilfordofmaine.com/acoustic-fabric/intermix/ Finally, I'm hoping to take it the whole 3.14 yards and produce a couple of "π" badges that will mount to the grille fronts. Here's a render depicting how I hope these will end up looking...
I've been itching to take on another high end audio project for a while, and became interested in Wayne's work, and the 4 Pi in particular after lurking around here for the past several years. Of course I don't need any more speakers, or projects for that matter...the farm keeps me busy enough as it is! But I thought this would be a fun departure from the usual rigamarole. Wayne kindly provided the plans for the 4 Pi and I ordered the waveguides and crossover PCB's from him. I also took advantage of a few Labor Day sales and bought all the components I needed. I opted for a high end build with 2226HPLs and a pair of Denovo DNA-360's I had, which feature nearly identical performance and characteristics to the DE-250. The crossovers will use Auricaps for the high pass circuit and Z-caps for the low pass, and 15ga inductors all around. Resistors are the standard Dayton ceramic types, as I'm not convinced that resistors have a significant impact on the sound. I may still swap them to the Mills later on. The plan will be to style the speakers similarly to Jensen's build here, with a couple changes: https://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&goto=91675& I will be flush-mounting the drivers, and mine will have removable grill cloth inserts that come flush with the edges of the cabinets. I'm hoping to find some textured fabric that's akin to what Klipsch used on many of their heritage products to complete the look. Well, enough blabber. Let's get to it! First order of business is to build the crossovers. I started by fastening both PCBs together and drilling holes in the appropriate spots. I used a 1/16" drill for the resistors and the Z-caps, and 5/64" for everything else. Components being glued to the board. I tightly kinked the leads underneath so they stay put. First round of soldering... Parts Express did not have the 15ga. Jantzen inductors in 0.5mH, so I ordered them in 0.55mH and unwound them from the inside until I achieved the desired value. Close enough! More components being adhered to the board. Audience recommends connecting the outside foil towards the input side of the high pass circuit, and the other side towards the tweeter input. I'm skeptical that it makes a difference but I did it anyway. This is where I stopped for the day, as I had other duties to attend to.
Hi, This is a really tough question and one that is not easy to answer. I would seek out web based tutorials on it. There are several that originate from colleges. IMO there are three distinct areas of concern: Avoiding contact with high enough voltages (anything over about 70volts seems to be the standard)to cause harm. Avoiding contact with things that get hot like tubes, power resistors and some rectifiers. Avoiding causing harm to other equipment, such as causing a fire. Specifics vary based on what you want to build and what your skill level is.
There's a lot of technicalities involved when creating DIY projects that concern gadgets and electronics. Since it relies on electricity, it's better to have some background to avoid mishandling things and getting hurt. What are the safety measures you consider before starting on a project or when working on one?
I have a cat and I have noticed many times that she runs and hides every time I play heavy metal. I have heard about therapeutic music for animals but I am not sure which one is suitable for cats.
A few years ago I bought a CD that was supposed to relax dogs. It was recommended by my vet because my pup hated going so much. Playing the music made the car ride a little easier, but I don't think it made a difference once we were ready to go in.
Pato wrote on Sun, 11 November 2018 17:47 I have heard of animals being treated to some music to help them relax. Have you ever noticed your pet liking, or disliking a particular song? My dog barks when I pause a movie or turn down the radio volume when in the car. I think that pets (in general) have an ear for sound. I have never heard of music being used to calm down a pet.
I once had a dog that would go nuts with surround sound effects. Otherwise no.
I have heard of animals being treated to some music to help them relax. Have you ever noticed your pet liking, or disliking a particular song?
Start with speaker cabinets. I could have sworn they taught us that in shop class in my sophmore year. You can't get more basic than that.
To build the most kits, you only need to know technical trades like using hand tools and soldering. If you're going to build loudspeakers, you might need to have some carpentry skills. Designing things is another matter. For amplifiers, you'll need to know advanced electronics and for loudspeakers you'll also need to know acoustics.
Wow, I never knew you needed physics to be able to build systems. I would have thought that you only needed a good understanding of electronics and those types of components. Well, now I know.
Of course, an understanding of physics is fundamental when designing speakers. You need to work with things like mass/spring systems, resonance, wave propagation and electronics.
I have basic knowledge in Physics (electronics was never that easy for me) so I'm wondering if this really matters if I want to build speakers from scratch?
Hi, I guess you need to decide on what sort of thing you want to create... speakers, amps, .... whatever.
Hey guys I am not great at putting things together, but I'd like to try in my free time as a hobby. What should I start with?
I agree that the younger and older generations must be marketed to in very different ways. For example, for younger individuals - snow boarding ads and for older individuals, a really good fridge. Most older people don't even want to get out in the cold!
Hi, I would think that something mellow would definitely be good to play to an unborn baby. You wouldn't want to play anything too hardcore or angry that could upset the baby.
I read somewhere that music is really good for babies while they are still in the tummy. What kind of music do you think would be best?
When it comes to hardware, I think it is probably disposable income. Young people tend to have fewer bills and obligations so more spending money. It is much easier to persuade a younger person to buy their first stereo, or a cheap portable disposable one to use at university, than to persuade an older person to replace a wired-in surround-sound system they've been happy with for years.
lilbill wrote on Thu, 20 October 2016 01:58 I still think that it is the older generation that does the most purchases. I was just reading that thread about the Mozart purchases, and your comment reminded me of that. Define "most purchases". The Mozart set technically outsold everyone else in terms of the most purchases, but that was because there were 200 CD's in one bulk package. The relevance here is that the older generation might actually be making less purchases, but they add up to total more in value than all those cheap purchases the millennial's make.
I agree that there are two very distinct types of ads that we see. The usual and more common caters to the young 'uns, and there are more sophisticated ads for the more mature generation.
It is true that there are different kinds of adverts for different segments of the population and as indicated by gofar, it still works both ways. I still think that it is the older generation that does the most purchases.