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Just bought pre-cut MDF for my One Pi speakers! [message #37372] Thu, 18 July 2002 11:24 Go to next message
Erik Johansson is currently offline  Erik Johansson
Messages: 65
Registered: May 2009
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Just got the MDF for my One Pi speakers! I was going to build the Two Pi but could not get the Alpha 10 drivers locally, so I decided to go with the smaller ones.

About the bass ports. I know we´ve asked you before Wayne and I, just like Mattias, can only find 65mm ID tubes. Well actually I CAN get 59.2mm ID PVC tubes but without the flange that´s on "real" bass ports which would make it hard to mount them in a nice looking way. How are the factory made One Pi speakers made? Are the ports mounted before veneering the speakers so that the veneer covers the ugly edge of the tube?

/Erik

Forgot the "real" question! [message #37373 is a reply to message #37372] Thu, 18 July 2002 11:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Erik Johansson is currently offline  Erik Johansson
Messages: 65
Registered: May 2009
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I was gonna ask you if the 100mm long 65mm ID ports (you recommended Mattias to make his ports 100mm long) would sound any less good than the stock size ports?

/Erik

Port stuff [message #37375 is a reply to message #37373] Thu, 18 July 2002 11:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18678
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
The way we do ports is to cut a hole that allows the tube to be inserted flush, then apply the veneer over that, covering the edge of the tube. We then paint the interior of the tube black. The plastic pre-made ducts are nice, easy to use, attractive and having radiused ends. But I always liked thick cardboard, as it is almost the same material the wood the cabinet is made from.

As for the port diameter, 65mm is fine. If you were considering a 75mm or 80mm port, then I'd be concerned. But when going to 65mm, it's actually very close. To put this in perspective for people thinking in terms of Imperial measurements, the inside dimension of the one π speaker is 2.38", or 60mm. A 65mm port is 2.55", which is enough change that we need to modify the length to compensate. But it isn't a huge difference, and the substitution can be made with a proper offset.

Re: Port stuff [message #37376 is a reply to message #37375] Thu, 18 July 2002 11:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Erik Johansson is currently offline  Erik Johansson
Messages: 65
Registered: May 2009
Viscount
We'll see what I'll do then. As I said, I can get 59.2mm ID grey PVC tubes. That's only about 1mm off (I could make the port something like 2mm shorter, hehe) and now that I got the tips from you about the veneering I feel that it might be the right way to do it. Is the inside of the port painted black before or after the veneer is applied and trimmed around the hole?

/Erik

Re: Port stuff [message #37377 is a reply to message #37376] Thu, 18 July 2002 12:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18678
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
If you can get 59.2mm ports, that's perfect. It's only 0.05" different than what is specified, which is closer tolerance than I would expect when buying cardboard tubes of the exact dimension.

About the paint we apply to the inside of the ports, they're hand-painted after the veneer is applied so that the edge of the veneer is covered. Not the most time-effective way to do it, but the results are good.

Building the cabinets [message #37379 is a reply to message #37372] Thu, 18 July 2002 13:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Erik Johansson is currently offline  Erik Johansson
Messages: 65
Registered: May 2009
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I'm wondering... should I just glue the cabinets together using wood-glue or should I screw + glue them?

/Erik

Re: Building the cabinets [message #37380 is a reply to message #37379] Thu, 18 July 2002 15:00 Go to previous message
BillEpstein is currently offline  BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
Only reason to use screws is in place of clamps. I like to use some screws even with clamps because pieces butted together tend to move when you tighten the clamps. I've also put small brads into one panel and clipped them off so they are just 1/2" proud, then they act as "spurs" to hold the adjacent panel in place.
Remember to drill the hole in the top panel larger than the screw so the under panel pulls tight.
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